Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing

<jjs> wrote in message
>
> "Ken Hart" wrote in message
>
\>>> Keep your eyes open for those 'canoe' or rocking stainless trays once
>>> used for color processing. I ran across three NIB for $5 each. Very
>>> good for 8x10" film. And short print runs.
>>>
>>>
>> I've seen pictures of those things, but never in real life...
>> How do you drain them?

They have a hole on one side near the top, so all you do is tip it in that
direction to empty. You would be right that it would be difficult otherwise
because the ends are rounded to contain sloshing chemicals. They also have a
nice detent to hold film/paper in place so it does not slosh about loose in
the chemicals. If I can find the instructions I will post a scan on a
website.
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

<jjs> wrote in message
>
> "Claudio Bonavolta" wrote in message
>
>
>>Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but
>>other more productive techniques (processors, etc
>
> Not in the USA. Professional B&W custom printers use trays.
>
>
If I'm printing a lot of B&W prints, then I'll get out the old stabilization
processor, fill it with Polymax in both racks, and run the prints thru three
times. But if I'm making some custom B&W's it's nice to use the trays so
that I can gently rub an area that needs just a wee bit more developement,
or even blot an area with a cotton ball dipped in straight developer.
For final wash and dry, I feed the prints into the wash racks of the color
processor.
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

On Feb 22, 9:06 am, dan.c.qu... DeleteThis @att.net wrote:
> On Feb 21, 2:08 am, Steven Woody wrote:
>
>
>
> > Dan,
>
> > 1, What's the dillution you used for developor and fixer?
> > 2, What is your workflow? ( i.e. how many fixing, how
> > many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing
> > step by step )
>
> My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix.
> No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into
> a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets
> to keep the prints separated. The same for the two
> following soaks. The last soak is overnight.
>
> If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of
> working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That
> would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of
> that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes
> of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over
> upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing
> of the fresh but very dilute solution

Thank you very much for your information.

> Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest
> a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is
> a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix
> fresh fixer just prior to use.

I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if
possible. Here are two questions about it:

1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution )
2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference between
them?

And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer.
If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks.


> BTW, if you are testing using 5x7 use 140ml of that
> dilute D-72. Dan
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

"Ken Hart" wrote in message

>
> "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
>
>> On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus:
>>
>>> Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
>>> some suggested brands? Thanks again.
>>
>> Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the
>> drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.)
>
> With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have
> one, no way am I giving it up!
>
> I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
> rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it
> right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one
> side and set a container there to stop it from going further.
>
The processor I have uses a motor driven arm that goves back-and-forth as
well as the circular motion. In this way, it gets the chemicals moving from
end to end in the drum as well as circulating the picture.

Also, the drum attaches to the arm via a magnet, so hook ups are quick, so
your timings stay consistent.

It's a great system.

Take Care,
Dudley
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

>> I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
>> rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get
>> it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to
>> one side and set a container there to stop it from going further.

Try placing a flat rubber band around the cylinder, to the inside of one
wheel and outside of the other (if there is room on the outside) so that
there is about 1/8" to 1/4" room for movement.

Mine walks, then walks back.
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

In article ,
"Dudley Hanks" wrote:

> "Ken Hart" wrote in message
>
> >
> > "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
> >
> >> On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus:
> >>
> >>> Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
> >>> some suggested brands? Thanks again.
> >>
> >> Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the
> >> drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.)
> >
> > With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have
> > one, no way am I giving it up!
> >
> > I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
> > rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it
> > right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one
> > side and set a container there to stop it from going further.
> >
> The processor I have uses a motor driven arm that goves back-and-forth as
> well as the circular motion. In this way, it gets the chemicals moving from
> end to end in the drum as well as circulating the picture.
>
> Also, the drum attaches to the arm via a magnet, so hook ups are quick, so
> your timings stay consistent.
>
> It's a great system.
>
> Take Care,
> Dudley

Its a Jobo

--
Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back.
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

"Lawrence Akutagawa" wrote in message

> I've heard of some folks placing large rubber bands around both ends of
> the drum close to the rollers to keep the drum from drifting. Dunno
> myself - I do the manual rolling back and forth, varying the angle and
> duration of the rolls.
>
> "Ken Hart" wrote in message
>
>>
>> "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
>>
>>> On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
>>>> some suggested brands? Thanks again.
>>>
>>> Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need
>>> the drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.)
>>
>> With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have
>> one, no way am I giving it up!
>>
>> I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
>> rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get
>> it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to
>> one side and set a container there to stop it from going further.
>>
>
>The first time I used a drum, I just rolled it back and forth on a
>countertop, switching the tank end for end every so often. It wasn't
>ideal, but it worked.

Take Care,
Dudley
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing 

On Feb 22, 6:04 am, Steven Woody wrote:
>
> > > Dan,
>
> > > 1, What's the dillution you used for developor and fixer?
> > > 2, What is your workflow?  ( i.e. how many fixing, how
> > > many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing
> > > step by step )
>
> >    My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix.
> > No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into
> > a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets
> > to keep the prints separated. The same for the two
> > following soaks. The last soak is overnight.
>
> >    If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of
> > working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That
> > would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of
> > that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes
> > of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over
> > upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing
> > of the fresh but very dilute solution
>
> Thank you very much for your information.
>
> >    Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest
> > a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is
> > a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix
> > fresh fixer just prior to use.
>
> I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if
> possible. Here are two questions about it:
>
> 1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution )
> 2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference
> between them?
>
If I were to mix enough fix for 3 8x10s I would dissolve 18
grams of sodium thiosulfate anhydrous to make 1 liter. Then
use 1/3 of that liter for each 8x10. That strength of fix will fix
Kentmere Bromide paper; a paper which takes more fix
than a few other papers I've tested.
I use fresh fixer prepared at time of use so have no need
for preservative; the sulfite Adams added to his Plain Fixers.
My print sessions are short. If yours are protracted then a
little sulfite may be a good idea.
>
> And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer.
> If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks.
>
To make a liter good for 3 8x10s include 30ml of the
concentrate. Plain or Rapid fix allow 4 minutes with
constant agitation. Now and then turn the print over
upon itself back to front and right to left. Both
developer and fixer are very dilute.
A second fix is superfuless. A single use of a very dilute
fix does not build up any harmful amount of dissolved silver.
In fact silver levels are well within archival levels.
Further more the amount of very dilute developer carried
into the fixer is too little to be of any bother. Skip the stop.
Any more questions?
I don't recommend my method for all darkroom work. If
you've a small darkroom and the work volume is modest
it's a very good way to go. Like I've said, single-tray use
is similar to single tube processing, one-shot or save
for the next print. I though have enough dark area for
tray processing and seeing what is happening. Dan
 >> Stay informed about: Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing