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intense greens: how to?

 
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daryl1138

External


Since: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 2



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 10:43 pm
Post subject: intense greens: how to?
Archived from groups: rec>photo>film+labs (more info?)

I took some photos last summer of a view in a forest that didn't come
out as expected. It was sunny but the trees were quite thick. I was
using a 1.8 50mm lens on an Elan 7 with fuji film. Speed was about 125
but I don't recall the stop. A seen composed almost entirely of
brilliant greenleaves and mosses with browns came back quite lack
luster and almost (color) washed out. Would this likely be technique,
film or just poor kodak processing?

Thanks
Daryl

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rodsmith

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Since: Aug 09, 2004
Posts: 48



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 11:40 am
Post subject: Re: intense greens: how to? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

In article <1111297423.997629.281090.RemoveThis@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
  daryl1138.RemoveThis@yahoo.com writes:
 >
 > I took some photos last summer of a view in a forest that didn't come
 > out as expected. It was sunny but the trees were quite thick. I was
 > using a 1.8 50mm lens on an Elan 7 with fuji film. Speed was about 125
 > but I don't recall the stop. A seen composed almost entirely of
 > brilliant greenleaves and mosses with browns came back quite lack
 > luster and almost (color) washed out. Would this likely be technique,
 > film or just poor kodak processing?

It's almost certainly poor processing. The color you see in color prints
is partly a result of color rendition in the negative and partly a result
of filtering in the photofinishing equipment (or of digital processing in
the latest equipment). Scenes with a limited range of colors, as you
describe, seem to be particularly tricky for automated digital equipment
to handle.

If it's practical, I'd say to send it back to the photofinisher and insist
on reprints done right. Alternatively, you could try taking the negatives
to a local pro lab. Either way, show them the originals and describe what
you want; they should be able to produce something better. Another option
is to scan the negatives yourself; that'll at least confirm that the
colors in the negatives are OK. Of course, this assumes you've got a film
scanner, which I suspect you don't, or you'd have tried it already.
Scanner software can also be confused by these sorts of scenes, for the
same reason that automated photofinishing equipment can be. Of course,
with a little experience, you can override those settings yourself.

--
Rod Smith, rodsmith.RemoveThis@rodsbooks.com
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.rodsbooks.com" target="_blank">http://www.rodsbooks.com</a>
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->

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uraniumcommitt1

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Since: Dec 07, 2004
Posts: 322



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:41 pm
Post subject: Re: intense greens: how to? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Was it negative film or transparency film?


Rod Smith wrote:
 > In article <1111297423.997629.281090.TakeThisOut@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
  > daryl1138.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com writes:
  > >
  > > I took some photos last summer of a view in a forest that didn't
come
  > > out as expected. It was sunny but the trees were quite thick. I
was
  > > using a 1.8 50mm lens on an Elan 7 with fuji film. Speed was about
125
  > > but I don't recall the stop. A seen composed almost entirely of
  > > brilliant greenleaves and mosses with browns came back quite lack
  > > luster and almost (color) washed out. Would this likely be
technique,
  > > film or just poor kodak processing?
 >
 > It's almost certainly poor processing. The color you see in color
prints
 > is partly a result of color rendition in the negative and partly a
result
 > of filtering in the photofinishing equipment (or of digital
processing in
 > the latest equipment). Scenes with a limited range of colors, as you
 > describe, seem to be particularly tricky for automated digital
equipment
 > to handle.
 >
 > If it's practical, I'd say to send it back to the photofinisher and
insist
 > on reprints done right. Alternatively, you could try taking the
negatives
 > to a local pro lab. Either way, show them the originals and describe
what
 > you want; they should be able to produce something better. Another
option
 > is to scan the negatives yourself; that'll at least confirm that the
 > colors in the negatives are OK. Of course, this assumes you've got a
film
 > scanner, which I suspect you don't, or you'd have tried it already.
 > Scanner software can also be confused by these sorts of scenes, for
the
 > same reason that automated photofinishing equipment can be. Of
course,
 > with a little experience, you can override those settings yourself.
 >
 > --
 > Rod Smith, rodsmith.TakeThisOut@rodsbooks.com
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.rodsbooks.com</font" target="_blank">http://www.rodsbooks.com</font</a>>
 > Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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daryl1138

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Since: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 2



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:39 pm
Post subject: Re: intense greens: how to? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

It was negative film. Plain Jane Fuji 200 print film. Normal shots of
beach, skyline, etc... all looked pretty good it was just the forest
pics that were disappointing.

Also thanks to Rod. Good info. No scanner yet... but I am leaning
that way. If one has a scanner would you recommend staying with print
film or going to slide(transparency)?

Thanks again.
Daryl
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rodsmith

External


Since: Aug 09, 2004
Posts: 48



(Msg. 5) Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 6:32 am
Post subject: Re: intense greens: how to? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

In article <1111376354.040048.295280 RemoveThis @l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
  daryl1138 RemoveThis @yahoo.com writes:
 >
 > Also thanks to Rod. Good info. No scanner yet... but I am leaning
 > that way. If one has a scanner would you recommend staying with print
 > film or going to slide(transparency)?

You're welcome. As to the slide/negative issue with scanners, there are
advantages to both approaches, particularly when you get down to
discussing specific films (if you really like film X's color rendition,
say). In my experience, it's easier to get the right colors when scanning
slide films, but negative films have greater exposure latitude, which is a
big plus. Negative film is also less expensive, particularly if your
regular photofinisher offers an option to develop the negatives only
(without making prints). On the whole, then, my own preference is to use
negative films for scanning. Others might have other opinions, though.

--
Rod Smith, rodsmith RemoveThis @rodsbooks.com
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.rodsbooks.com" target="_blank">http://www.rodsbooks.com</a>
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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Gaz

External


Since: Mar 26, 2005
Posts: 1



(Msg. 6) Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 1:15 pm
Post subject: Re: intense greens: how to? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Sounds like an underexposed neg to me, does the neg look thin?

Gaz.

<daryl1138.RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111297423.997629.281090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
 >I took some photos last summer of a view in a forest that didn't come
 > out as expected. It was sunny but the trees were quite thick. I was
 > using a 1.8 50mm lens on an Elan 7 with fuji film. Speed was about 125
 > but I don't recall the stop. A seen composed almost entirely of
 > brilliant greenleaves and mosses with browns came back quite lack
 > luster and almost (color) washed out. Would this likely be technique,
 > film or just poor kodak processing?
 >
 > Thanks
 > Daryl
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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uraniumcommitt1

External


Since: Dec 07, 2004
Posts: 322



(Msg. 7) Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 1:32 pm
Post subject: Re: intense greens: how to? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

daryl1138.DeleteThis@yahoo.com wrote:
 > It was negative film. Plain Jane Fuji 200 print film. Normal shots
of
 > beach, skyline, etc... all looked pretty good it was just the forest
 > pics that were disappointing.
 >
 > Also thanks to Rod. Good info. No scanner yet... but I am leaning
 > that way. If one has a scanner would you recommend staying with
print
 > film or going to slide(transparency)?
 >
 > Thanks again.
 > Daryl

The automatic printers that most amateur and some pro labs use are set
up to counter-act strong color casts. This means that if you take a
photo in the shade, where the illumination is usually excessively blue
(and sometimes green from the surrounding foliage) the printer will
ffset this by making the print yellower. Unfortunately, this also tends
to offset any strong color. So, your negatives are being printed to
reduce the green 'cast' that the printer sees.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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