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External
Since: Jun 06, 2004
Posts: 646
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(Msg. 46) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:34 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: rec>photo>darkroom (more info?)
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"Rod Smith" <rodsmith DeleteThis @nessus.rodsbooks.com> wrote in message
news:134b55-5n7.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks.com...
> In article <13o36j825t8r910 DeleteThis @corp.supernews.com>,
> "G.T." <getnews1 DeleteThis @dslextreme.com> writes:
>>
>> Oh, and regarding grain, my instructor actually suggested that I use
>> Xtol for now. But during class he told us that we'll get larger, more
>> noticeable grain if we using something like Rodinal/HC-110. That's why
>> I'm currently playing with it.
>
> Experimenting with products is fine; however, since you're just starting
> out I'd like to caution you against going wild with all the films and
> developers that are out there. You'll learn most quickly if you stick to
> just one or two films and one developer while you learn. If you try a new
> film/developer combination with every roll or two, you won't learn how the
> two work together or be able to optimize your developing techniques. Learn
> your basic techniques first and THEN start playing with different
> developers.
Basically, for good or bad, I'm using Tri-X 400 (I have also used some of
the current Arista 400 film but for film right now I'm sticking with the
Tri-X), and on just my 2nd developer, the Rodinal, the 4 oz bottle. I'll
finish this Rodinal up and try some Xtol. I won't be trying any other films
until I get a feel for the differences of the Tri-X in the Accufine, the
Rodinal, and then the Xtol.
Is that reasonable?
I'm fortunate to live a short subway ride away from Freestyle.
Greg |
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External
Since: Aug 09, 2004
Posts: 48
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(Msg. 47) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:56 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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In article <13o51kk6nv13m33.TakeThisOut@corp.supernews.com>,
"G.T." <getnews1.TakeThisOut@dslextreme.com> writes:
>
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
>> G.T. wrote:
>>
>>> Print, load in drum, fill with developer, agitate, empty developer, fill
>>> with stop and agitate, empty, fill with fixer and agitate, empty. Then
>>> hypo clear, wash, and dry?
>>
>> Since the steps after printing can be done in daylight with no special
>> equipment, you may not want to use the drum for them.
>
> Ok, at what step can I switch to daylight equipment? Do I have to stop
> and fix a little before switching to daylight? Or can I do the stop and
> fix in daylight?
I suspect that there's some miscommunication going on here -- or maybe I'm
just misreading/misjudging peoples' posts.
When using the traditional open trays for B&W enlarging, the dry-side
printing, developer, stop bath, and beginning of fixer steps should be
done in the dark or under safelight conditions. Normal room lights can be
turned on once the print's been in the fixer for a few seconds. (You might
even be able to get away with this with the print in the stop bath, but
I've not tried that.)
When using a print processing drum, the room lights can be turned on as
soon as the print is in the drum and the drum is sealed up but before you
begin processing the print. The developing, stopping, fixing, and washing
can all be done in normal room light, just like film processing in a film
tank. (The print is of course still in the dark, just sealed inside its
drum.)
Drums are frequently used for color processing, but they work fine for
B&W. Some online retailers might list them under color paper processing
equipment. Another option is known as an "orbital processor." This is
basically a covered tray with provision to pour chemicals in and out.
I've heard of people using two-room setups for print processing. For
instance, you could set up an enlarger in a bedroom or a large closet and
then, using a print processing drum, do the actual processing in a
bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. Personally, I think I'd prefer a
compact bathroom setup, using the bathtub as a place to hold the trays and
putting the enlarger on a cart or balancing it on the toilet or sink.
Vertical slot processors can also be handy in space-constrained
situations, although they tend to be pricey.
Concerning light-proofing a room, note that this is easier if you're
willing to restrict your darkroom sessions to night. A light leak that
would fog paper in the day might be harmless at night.
If space is limited, you'll need to select an enlarger carefully. A few
models fold up, sometimes into suitcase-style boxes. These could be handy
in cramped quarters. With a little more storage space, an enlarger on a
wheeled cart might be better.
--
Rod Smith, rodsmith.TakeThisOut@rodsbooks.com
http://www.rodsbooks.com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
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External
Since: Jun 06, 2004
Posts: 646
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(Msg. 48) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:56 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Rod Smith" <rodsmith.DeleteThis@nessus.rodsbooks.com> wrote in message
news:pc5b55-5n7.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks.com...
> In article <13o51kk6nv13m33.DeleteThis@corp.supernews.com>,
> "G.T." <getnews1.DeleteThis@dslextreme.com> writes:
>>
>> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
>>> G.T. wrote:
>>>
>>>> Print, load in drum, fill with developer, agitate, empty developer,
>>>> fill
>>>> with stop and agitate, empty, fill with fixer and agitate, empty. Then
>>>> hypo clear, wash, and dry?
>>>
>>> Since the steps after printing can be done in daylight with no special
>>> equipment, you may not want to use the drum for them.
>>
>> Ok, at what step can I switch to daylight equipment? Do I have to stop
>> and fix a little before switching to daylight? Or can I do the stop and
>> fix in daylight?
>
> I suspect that there's some miscommunication going on here -- or maybe I'm
> just misreading/misjudging peoples' posts.
>
> When using the traditional open trays for B&W enlarging, the dry-side
> printing, developer, stop bath, and beginning of fixer steps should be
> done in the dark or under safelight conditions. Normal room lights can be
> turned on once the print's been in the fixer for a few seconds. (You might
> even be able to get away with this with the print in the stop bath, but
> I've not tried that.)
>
> When using a print processing drum, the room lights can be turned on as
> soon as the print is in the drum and the drum is sealed up but before you
> begin processing the print. The developing, stopping, fixing, and washing
> can all be done in normal room light, just like film processing in a film
> tank. (The print is of course still in the dark, just sealed inside its
> drum.)
I don't know if that all was explicitly stated before but I did understand
those points.
>
> Drums are frequently used for color processing, but they work fine for
> B&W. Some online retailers might list them under color paper processing
> equipment. Another option is known as an "orbital processor." This is
> basically a covered tray with provision to pour chemicals in and out.
>
With the drums can I agitate manually or is it too inconvenient to agitate
it myself? Do I need to get a roller, too?
> I've heard of people using two-room setups for print processing. For
> instance, you could set up an enlarger in a bedroom or a large closet and
> then, using a print processing drum, do the actual processing in a
> bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. Personally, I think I'd prefer a
> compact bathroom setup, using the bathtub as a place to hold the trays and
> putting the enlarger on a cart or balancing it on the toilet or sink.
> Vertical slot processors can also be handy in space-constrained
> situations, although they tend to be pricey.
>
> Concerning light-proofing a room, note that this is easier if you're
> willing to restrict your darkroom sessions to night. A light leak that
> would fog paper in the day might be harmless at night.
>
> If space is limited, you'll need to select an enlarger carefully. A few
> models fold up, sometimes into suitcase-style boxes. These could be handy
> in cramped quarters. With a little more storage space, an enlarger on a
> wheeled cart might be better.
Thanks.
Greg >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 906
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(Msg. 49) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:56 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On 1/7/2008 7:46 PM G.T. spake thus:
> With the drums can I agitate manually or is it too inconvenient to agitate
> it myself? Do I need to get a roller, too?
I'd spend the extra fifty cents and get the motor base.
I got my drum processor (Beseler Unicolor, made for color 8x10 prints,
but I use it for 4x5 film processing) with the companion motor base for
$cheap on eBay. Stuff like that comes up there all the time.
And contrary to what I've heard here, I've never gotten any processing
streaks on film from the machine agitation.
It also uses a *lot* less chemistry, since you don't have to fill a
whole tray. >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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Since: Jun 06, 2004
Posts: 646
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(Msg. 50) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:57 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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David Nebenzahl wrote:
> On 1/7/2008 7:46 PM G.T. spake thus:
>
>> With the drums can I agitate manually or is it too inconvenient to
>> agitate it myself? Do I need to get a roller, too?
>
> I'd spend the extra fifty cents and get the motor base.
I should have read this post before sending my last one. So these days
the used motor bases are quite cheap?
> I got my drum processor (Beseler Unicolor, made for color 8x10 prints,
> but I use it for 4x5 film processing) with the companion motor base for
> $cheap on eBay. Stuff like that comes up there all the time.
>
> And contrary to what I've heard here, I've never gotten any processing
> streaks on film from the machine agitation.
>
> It also uses a *lot* less chemistry, since you don't have to fill a
> whole tray.
Gotcha.
Greg >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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Since: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 158
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(Msg. 51) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:24 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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G.T. wrote:
> enlarger, lens, neg holder, timer
I started out without a timer, I used a watch.
Before that I used the the old "one-one thousand" method for
timing exposure and developed by inspection.
> safelight
That's a touchy subject here. Safelight type, color and position vary a
lot and as long as they don't fog your paper, it's a matter of money and
personal preference. If you can figure out the electrical wiring a
connection that turns off the safelight while the enlarger is on will
make setup and focusing easier.
> paper developer
Yes, though some people have said that rodinal works in a pinch.
> 2 drums
The more the merrier. You have to dry it completely between prints
and that may take more time than anything else. A hair dryer?
> I can use my two trays for the initial wash and hypo clearing?
Sure, if you have a sink, you can rinse the print off in it and
then soak it, which may use more water, or do the final wash in
a bucket or a vertical washer.
> something to use for washing
A while ago I mentioned converting an aquarium to a vertical
processor, a leaky one could be used for a washer.
> print wiper
> dryer?
I don't really think they are needed for RC paper, for fiber
paper you would. RC prints dry nicely on a clothes line
(indoors to prevent dust) or a dish rack.
> What am I missing?
Tongs, stop bath and fixer. Gloves if you have skin problems
with the chemicals.
As for timing the processing steps, there is a nice freeware
program for the Palm Pilot that does it and you could probably
pick up an old one for free. From what I can see, anything
without a color screen, MP3 playback, etc has long since
be stuck in a drawer as too good to throw away and not
good enough to use, but it would be perfect.
Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm.DeleteThis@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/ >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Jun 06, 2004
Posts: 646
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(Msg. 52) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:24 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
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Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
> G.T. wrote:
>> enlarger, lens, neg holder, timer
>
> I started out without a timer, I used a watch.
> Before that I used the the old "one-one thousand" method for
> timing exposure and developed by inspection.
>
>> safelight
>
> That's a touchy subject here. Safelight type, color and position vary a
> lot and as long as they don't fog your paper, it's a matter of money and
> personal preference. If you can figure out the electrical wiring a
> connection that turns off the safelight while the enlarger is on will
> make setup and focusing easier.
>
>> paper developer
>
> Yes, though some people have said that rodinal works in a pinch.
I forgot, I still have some Clayton P20.
>
>> 2 drums
>
> The more the merrier. You have to dry it completely between prints
> and that may take more time than anything else. A hair dryer?
>
>> I can use my two trays for the initial wash and hypo clearing?
>
> Sure, if you have a sink, you can rinse the print off in it and
> then soak it, which may use more water, or do the final wash in
> a bucket or a vertical washer.
>
>> something to use for washing
>
> A while ago I mentioned converting an aquarium to a vertical
> processor, a leaky one could be used for a washer.
>
>> print wiper
>> dryer?
>
> I don't really think they are needed for RC paper, for fiber
> paper you would. RC prints dry nicely on a clothes line
> (indoors to prevent dust) or a dish rack.
>
I've got a ton of RC paper left and about 20 sheets of 8x10 fiber.
>
>> What am I missing?
>
> Tongs, stop bath and fixer. Gloves if you have skin problems
> with the chemicals.
>
Yeah, got those except for the gloves.
Greg >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 906
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(Msg. 53) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:24 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On 1/7/2008 11:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
>
>> Tongs, stop bath and fixer. Gloves if you have skin problems
>> with the chemicals.
>
> Yeah, got those except for the gloves.
Gloves are for sissies. >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Jun 06, 2004
Posts: 646
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(Msg. 54) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:24 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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David Nebenzahl wrote:
> On 1/7/2008 11:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>
>> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
> >
>>> Tongs, stop bath and fixer. Gloves if you have skin problems
>>> with the chemicals.
>>
>> Yeah, got those except for the gloves.
>
> Gloves are for sissies.
Heh, nice motto.
Greg >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 158
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(Msg. 55) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:19 am
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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David Nebenzahl wrote:
> Gloves are for sissies.
I found that in the 1980's skin problems I had went away when exposed to
developing chemicals, but other people have had severe reactions.
I have a sensitivity to vinegar and switched to citric acid based stop
bath.
Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm.DeleteThis@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/ >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Apr 09, 2007
Posts: 36
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(Msg. 56) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:15 pm
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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In article <13o626cl2okuo23 DeleteThis @corp.supernews.com>, G.T.
getnews1 DeleteThis @dslextreme.com says...
> My bathroom is tiny, tiny. Not much room to stand while brushing my
> teeth and the toilet is in a space that I'm not sure I can fit an
> enlarger on the toilet seat. It would be very difficult to print in the
> my bathroom. And there is just too much light outside at night to close
> off my kitchen.
>
You could always make a blackout tent. This can consist of as little as
a box (or fabric covered frame) in which to stand the enlarger on a
table, and a hood of blackout fabric that you duck inside and close
around your waist. >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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Since: Mar 01, 2004
Posts: 204
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(Msg. 57) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:25 pm
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Tue, 8 Jan 2008 07:24:03 +0000 (UTC), gsm.TakeThisOut@mendelson.com (Geoffrey
S. Mendelson) wrote:
[---]
>As for timing the processing steps, there is a nice freeware
>program for the Palm Pilot that does it and you could probably
>pick up an old one for free. From what I can see, anything
>without a color screen, MP3 playback, etc has long since
>be stuck in a drawer as too good to throw away and not
>good enough to use, but it would be perfect.
That's exactly what I use my old Palm III for. Works very well
indeed. >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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External
Since: Aug 09, 2004
Posts: 48
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(Msg. 58) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:59 pm
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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In article <13o5st6mfb3dj62.DeleteThis@corp.supernews.com>,
"G.T." <getnews1.DeleteThis@dslextreme.com> writes:
>
> "Rod Smith" <rodsmith.DeleteThis@nessus.rodsbooks.com> wrote in message
> news:134b55-5n7.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks.com...
>>
>> Experimenting with products is fine; however, since you're just starting
>> out I'd like to caution you against going wild with all the films and
>> developers that are out there. You'll learn most quickly if you stick to
>> just one or two films and one developer while you learn. If you try a new
>> film/developer combination with every roll or two, you won't learn how the
>> two work together or be able to optimize your developing techniques. Learn
>> your basic techniques first and THEN start playing with different
>> developers.
>
> Basically, for good or bad, I'm using Tri-X 400 (I have also used some of
> the current Arista 400 film but for film right now I'm sticking with the
> Tri-X),
For future reference, Freestyle sells several different products under
their "Arista" label. You *MUST* pay attention to the specifics -- for
instance, Arista.EDU, Arista.EDU Ultra, and Arista II are all made by
different manufacturers. Many of these products have been discontinued
(mostly because of manufacturers going under, such as Agfa and Forte), so
Freestyle may not have much of some of these items left, but it's
imperative that you pay attention to this detail lest you get the wrong
developing time or provoke confusion in discussions with others.
> and on just my 2nd developer, the Rodinal, the 4 oz bottle. I'll
> finish this Rodinal up and try some Xtol. I won't be trying any other films
> until I get a feel for the differences of the Tri-X in the Accufine, the
> Rodinal, and then the Xtol.
>
> Is that reasonable?
Your first post mentioned that you'd just finished developing your first
three rolls "at home." If you've not been developing film elsewhere, going
through as many developers as you mention after just three rolls is
inadvisable; stick with ONE for a while. "A while" is rather vague, I
admit; if you need more precision, I'd say 10-20 rolls before you start
trying other things.
--
Rod Smith, rodsmith.DeleteThis@rodsbooks.com
http://www.rodsbooks.com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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Since: Jun 06, 2004
Posts: 646
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(Msg. 59) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:59 pm
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Rod Smith" <rodsmith.RemoveThis@nessus.rodsbooks.com> wrote in message
news:ar4d55-v8d.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks.com...
> In article <13o5st6mfb3dj62.RemoveThis@corp.supernews.com>,
> "G.T." <getnews1.RemoveThis@dslextreme.com> writes:
>>
>> "Rod Smith" <rodsmith.RemoveThis@nessus.rodsbooks.com> wrote in message
>> news:134b55-5n7.ln1@speaker.rodsbooks.com...
>>>
>>> Experimenting with products is fine; however, since you're just starting
>>> out I'd like to caution you against going wild with all the films and
>>> developers that are out there. You'll learn most quickly if you stick to
>>> just one or two films and one developer while you learn. If you try a
>>> new
>>> film/developer combination with every roll or two, you won't learn how
>>> the
>>> two work together or be able to optimize your developing techniques.
>>> Learn
>>> your basic techniques first and THEN start playing with different
>>> developers.
>>
>> Basically, for good or bad, I'm using Tri-X 400 (I have also used some of
>> the current Arista 400 film but for film right now I'm sticking with the
>> Tri-X),
>
> For future reference, Freestyle sells several different products under
> their "Arista" label. You *MUST* pay attention to the specifics -- for
> instance, Arista.EDU, Arista.EDU Ultra, and Arista II are all made by
> different manufacturers. Many of these products have been discontinued
> (mostly because of manufacturers going under, such as Agfa and Forte), so
> Freestyle may not have much of some of these items left, but it's
> imperative that you pay attention to this detail lest you get the wrong
> developing time or provoke confusion in discussions with others.
Understood. It's Arista.EDU Ultra which I think is all they have in 120 at
this point.
>
>> and on just my 2nd developer, the Rodinal, the 4 oz bottle. I'll
>> finish this Rodinal up and try some Xtol. I won't be trying any other
>> films
>> until I get a feel for the differences of the Tri-X in the Accufine, the
>> Rodinal, and then the Xtol.
>>
>> Is that reasonable?
>
> Your first post mentioned that you'd just finished developing your first
> three rolls "at home." If you've not been developing film elsewhere, going
> through as many developers as you mention after just three rolls is
> inadvisable; stick with ONE for a while. "A while" is rather vague, I
> admit; if you need more precision, I'd say 10-20 rolls before you start
> trying other things.
No, I developed 24 rolls with Accufine in class, the 3 rolls with Rodinal
are the first I've developed at home. My instructor suggested trying Xtol
next but I tend to do my own thing. It's Rodinal for now, I've been mixing
it at 25+1 but to get more rolls done with it I'll start doing 50+1 or
100+1.
Thanks,
Greg >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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Since: Aug 09, 2004
Posts: 48
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(Msg. 60) Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:12 pm
Post subject: Re: B&W film developing questions [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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In article <slrnfo6927.t6p.gsm.RemoveThis@cable.mendelson.com>,
gsm.RemoveThis@mendelson.com (Geoffrey S. Mendelson) writes:
>
> G.T. wrote:
>> enlarger, lens, neg holder, timer
>
> I started out without a timer, I used a watch.
> Before that I used the the old "one-one thousand" method for
> timing exposure and developed by inspection.
Most eBay auctions for enlargers include negative carriers, usually a
lens, and sometimes a timer. A few enlargers (such as my Philips PCS130
with PCS150 control unit) have built-in timers.
>> safelight
>
> That's a touchy subject here. Safelight type, color and position vary a
> lot and as long as they don't fog your paper, it's a matter of money and
> personal preference. If you can figure out the electrical wiring a
> connection that turns off the safelight while the enlarger is on will
> make setup and focusing easier.
You can buy a red bulb to turn an ordinary light fixture into a safelight.
Painted tungsten bulbs are a bit risky that way, since the paint can get
scratched off, but they're cheap. Red LEDs (such as those from
http://www.superbrightleds.com) are likely to be safer. There are also, of
course, traditional safelights, which typically take low-wattage tungsten
bulbs and have amber or red filters.
>> 2 drums
>
> The more the merrier. You have to dry it completely between prints
> and that may take more time than anything else. A hair dryer?
I once tried a hair dryer for this purpose. It ended up cracking the
plastic (I could hear it crack). Now I use towels, except that I seldom
use my drums any more.
>> I can use my two trays for the initial wash and hypo clearing?
>
> Sure, if you have a sink, you can rinse the print off in it and
> then soak it, which may use more water, or do the final wash in
> a bucket or a vertical washer.
If you're using drums, you can do most everything in them. Hypo clear is
only necessary when using fiber-based paper; with resin-coated paper, you
skip the hypo clear.
>> print wiper
>> dryer?
>
> I don't really think they are needed for RC paper, for fiber
> paper you would. RC prints dry nicely on a clothes line
> (indoors to prevent dust) or a dish rack.
My high-tech RC paper dryer is wire-frame office folder separators from my
local Staples.
> As for timing the processing steps, there is a nice freeware
> program for the Palm Pilot that does it and you could probably
> pick up an old one for free. From what I can see, anything
> without a color screen, MP3 playback, etc has long since
> be stuck in a drawer as too good to throw away and not
> good enough to use, but it would be perfect.
I use a pair of cheap 3-way kitchen timers. I can time three steps on
each, which is handy (particularly for film processing). I'd worry about
getting chemicals on anything expensive, although an older Palm Pilot is
probably low enough in value that it's not worth worrying too much about.
--
Rod Smith, rodsmith.RemoveThis@rodsbooks.com
http://www.rodsbooks.com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking >> Stay informed about: B&W film developing questions |
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