Your favorite 8x10 film/developer combination

bmp23.RemoveThis@comcast.net (brook) wrote in message news:<6d69bc35.0311241420.6c1824e6.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
 > dpcwilbur.RemoveThis@excite.com (Collin Brendemuehl) wrote in message news:<10c1a061.0311241045.6ffba08f.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
  > > Since I'm new to 8x10 my film is current some thrift-shop-purchased
  > > TMax 100 which I'm developing in HC-110(b). Results are pretty nice
  > > though TMax is far from my favorite film. Never really like it overall.
  > >
  > > What are my other b&w 8x10 options and the results you've gotten from them?
  > > Or is 8x10 just so large that they're all, with the right combination
  > > & practice, going to produce very nice results?
  > >
  > > (I'm using an old Kodak 2D with a Nikkor-M 300/9 & will try to scan a
  > > contact print or two next week.)
  > >
  > >
  > > TIA,
  > >
  > > Collin
 > This is really going to depend on your final choice of material to
 > print on. If you are going to contact print, you really should
 > consider the AZO/amidol combo. This will require a much denser and
 > contrastier negative than any of the enlarging papers will handle
 > well. I like ABC pyro, with Sandy Kings Pyrocat HD being another good
 > choice. I use HP5+.
 > Brook



Tri-X in Xtol developed for 8 minutes. Prints nicely on a grade 1 1/2
with rich ,id range contrast, but not to heavy highlights to blow out.

Alexis

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 >> Stay informed about: Your favorite 8x10 film/developer combination 

Which dilution of Xtol is that, I think it is 1:1 at 21 degrees? I prefer
1:3 as it seems to fool the eye into thinking my lenses are sharper than
they really are. For that dilution, the time would be 14 minutes at 20
degrees. While there is a small increase in grain (due to the longer
developing time, I guess), for large format sheet film that does not seem to
be significant in the final print(s).

Dick
"Alexis Neel" <webehi2 RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e5efb0b3.0311250121.78c012f8@posting.google.com...
 > bmp23 RemoveThis @comcast.net (brook) wrote in message
news:<6d69bc35.0311241420.6c1824e6 RemoveThis @posting.google.com>...
  > > dpcwilbur RemoveThis @excite.com (Collin Brendemuehl) wrote in message
news:<10c1a061.0311241045.6ffba08f RemoveThis @posting.google.com>...
   > > > Since I'm new to 8x10 my film is current some thrift-shop-purchased
   > > > TMax 100 which I'm developing in HC-110(b). Results are pretty nice
   > > > though TMax is far from my favorite film. Never really like it
overall.
   > > >
   > > > What are my other b&w 8x10 options and the results you've gotten from
them?
   > > > Or is 8x10 just so large that they're all, with the right combination
   > > > & practice, going to produce very nice results?
   > > >
   > > > (I'm using an old Kodak 2D with a Nikkor-M 300/9 & will try to scan a
   > > > contact print or two next week.)
   > > >
   > > >
   > > > TIA,
   > > >
   > > > Collin
  > > This is really going to depend on your final choice of material to
  > > print on. If you are going to contact print, you really should
  > > consider the AZO/amidol combo. This will require a much denser and
  > > contrastier negative than any of the enlarging papers will handle
  > > well. I like ABC pyro, with Sandy Kings Pyrocat HD being another good
  > > choice. I use HP5+.
  > > Brook
 >
 >
 >
 > Tri-X in Xtol developed for 8 minutes. Prints nicely on a grade 1 1/2
 > with rich ,id range contrast, but not to heavy highlights to blow out.
 >
 > Alexis
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.alexisneel.com</font" target="_blank">www.alexisneel.com</font</a>><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Your favorite 8x10 film/developer combination 

Straight


"Dick" <nowhere DeleteThis @nowhow.net> wrote in message news:<RfCdnaSD5bL5QFmi4p2dnA DeleteThis @comcast.com>...
 > Which dilution of Xtol is that, I think it is 1:1 at 21 degrees? I prefer
 > 1:3 as it seems to fool the eye into thinking my lenses are sharper than
 > they really are. For that dilution, the time would be 14 minutes at 20
 > degrees. While there is a small increase in grain (due to the longer
 > developing time, I guess), for large format sheet film that does not seem to
 > be significant in the final print(s).
 >
 > Dick
 > "Alexis Neel" <webehi2 DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
 > news:e5efb0b3.0311250121.78c012f8@posting.google.com...
  > > bmp23 DeleteThis @comcast.net (brook) wrote in message
 > news:<6d69bc35.0311241420.6c1824e6 DeleteThis @posting.google.com>...
   > > > dpcwilbur DeleteThis @excite.com (Collin Brendemuehl) wrote in message
 > news:<10c1a061.0311241045.6ffba08f DeleteThis @posting.google.com>...
   > > > > Since I'm new to 8x10 my film is current some thrift-shop-purchased
   > > > > TMax 100 which I'm developing in HC-110(b). Results are pretty nice
   > > > > though TMax is far from my favorite film. Never really like it
 > overall.
   > > > >
   > > > > What are my other b&w 8x10 options and the results you've gotten from
 > them?
   > > > > Or is 8x10 just so large that they're all, with the right combination
   > > > > & practice, going to produce very nice results?
   > > > >
   > > > > (I'm using an old Kodak 2D with a Nikkor-M 300/9 & will try to scan a
   > > > > contact print or two next week.)
   > > > >
   > > > >
   > > > > TIA,
   > > > >
   > > > > Collin
   > > > This is really going to depend on your final choice of material to
   > > > print on. If you are going to contact print, you really should
   > > > consider the AZO/amidol combo. This will require a much denser and
   > > > contrastier negative than any of the enlarging papers will handle
   > > > well. I like ABC pyro, with Sandy Kings Pyrocat HD being another good
   > > > choice. I use HP5+.
   > > > Brook
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Tri-X in Xtol developed for 8 minutes. Prints nicely on a grade 1 1/2
  > > with rich ,id range contrast, but not to heavy highlights to blow out.
  > >
  > > Alexis
  > >
<font color=green>  > > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.alexisneel.com</font" target="_blank">www.alexisneel.com</font</a>><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Your favorite 8x10 film/developer combination 

I do 4x5's for my pinhole camera by inspection. I have used HC-110(b)
with success, but like Rodinol 1:50, which takes enough time -- 7+
minutes, so I can inspect with a dark green safety light.

I am using either Tmax-100 or some of that high constrast ASA 25
stuff, with shortened development.

Back to basics...

See what Edward Weston did -- he did 8x10 and contact printed...
 >> Stay informed about: Your favorite 8x10 film/developer combination