developing w/ tmax film

"Erinnerd" <erinnerd.RemoveThis@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030709201314.25303.00000113@mb-m21.aol.com...
 > Hi, I apologize in advance for what is probably a really dumb question.
See,
 > last year I took my first formal photography class, during which I
developed
 > and printed using nothing but Tri-X film (iso400). Now that I am done
with my
 > class and looking to develop on my own, I'm kind of at a loss. In my
everday
 > life, I very frequently use Tmax 3200 film, and was wondering, besides
 > developing times, are there any huge differences in technique/materials
that I
 > will need to adapt to?
 >

No. The film is faster and grainier. T-Max developer is recommended...
just follow the instructions.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

I hope it's not a dumb question, since it's one that ALL of us have asked at
some point in our lives.

As another poster has said, consistancy is so important: then if something
goes wrong, it's easier to figure out. Cleanliness is another 'must'. Rinse
everything one more time than you feel is necessary - it's too easy a 'cure'
for cross-contamination of chemistry to pass up. And, if you decide add or
subtract something to alter contrast, or whatever, change ONE thing at a
time, again so you can know the cause instantly, should something go wrong.

Finally, (still speaking generally), there is no real 'right' developer:
each of the dozens out there impart a slightly different 'look' to the film,
but the T-Max developer mentioned by another poster is a good starting
point.

If you feel the need to find out how many film/developer combinations there
are, try the "Massive Dev. Chart" at 'DigitalTruth.com'. Kodak, Ilford, and
Agfa, (and probably others) have tons of information on thier web-sites, and
Agfa has free on-line courses that are fun to read, and very useful.

Best of luck. I've been single-handedly trying to deplete the world's silver
resources for many, many years (maybe 60 or more?) and still find something
new and exciting to try, almost every day.
"Erinnerd" <erinnerd.RemoveThis@aol.com> wrote in message
 > Hi, I apologize in advance for what is probably a really dumb question.
See,
 > last year ................<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

Like one poster said, Tmax 3200 (TMX) is more grainy.
It could be a good choice for fast paced street
shooting and other sobjects that are poorly lit. Or
maybe you just like the effect the grain will give
for certian images (nude studies, abstract, etc).
If I was starting out, then I'd just stick to the
times and temps recommended by Kodak. Try either
Xtol or Tmax developers and just use their procedures.
Kodak's times for Xtol definately got me in the
ballpark. I liked the way the images came out. Never
tried Tmax dev, but I'm sure it should work fine.

Consistency is important. You will need to think how
you can control time, temp and agitation every time
you develop your film. For hand tank use, maybe you
could fill your sink or bathtub with water at whatever
temp you need? Some folks buy a big piece of tupperware
and cut holes in the lid. They regulate the temp with
an aquarium heater. Or you could go sophistacted and
get a Jobo tempering bath unit. Your call...

erinnerd DeleteThis @aol.com (Erinnerd) wrote in message news:<20030709201314.25303.00000113 DeleteThis @mb-m21.aol.com>...
 > Hi, I apologize in advance for what is probably a really dumb question. See,
 > last year I took my first formal photography class, during which I developed
 > and printed using nothing but Tri-X film (iso400). Now that I am done with my
 > class and looking to develop on my own, I'm kind of at a loss. In my everday
 > life, I very frequently use Tmax 3200 film, and was wondering, besides
 > developing times, are there any huge differences in technique/materials that I
 > will need to adapt to?
 >
 > Thanks,
 > Erin<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

TMax is not really difficult if you are reasonably careful. TMax developer
is the usual, but D-76 (1:1) is excellent and very consistent. Be sure to
use fresh fixer and to fix the film thoroughly. A pink dye from the film
dissolves (slowly) in the fixer. I prefer to use one-shot processing for
all solutions.

"Erinnerd" <erinnerd DeleteThis @aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030709201314.25303.00000113@mb-m21.aol.com...
 > Hi, I apologize in advance for what is probably a really dumb question.
See,
 > last year I took my first formal photography class, during which I
developed
 > and printed using nothing but Tri-X film (iso400). Now that I am done
with my
 > class and looking to develop on my own, I'm kind of at a loss. In my
everday
 > life, I very frequently use Tmax 3200 film, and was wondering, besides
 > developing times, are there any huge differences in technique/materials
that I
 > will need to adapt to?
 >
 > Thanks,
 > Erin<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

On 10 Jul 2003 00:13:14 GMT, erinnerd.RemoveThis@aol.com (Erinnerd) wrote:

 >Hi, I apologize in advance for what is probably a really dumb question. See,
 >last year I took my first formal photography class, during which I developed
 >and printed using nothing but Tri-X film (iso400). Now that I am done with my
 >class and looking to develop on my own, I'm kind of at a loss. In my everday
 >life, I very frequently use Tmax 3200 film, and was wondering, besides
 >developing times, are there any huge differences in technique/materials that I
 >will need to adapt to?

  There are differences and then there are differences but I believe that
you'll find T-Max films to be somewhat better in nearly every way. Image
sharpness. Film speed. Granularity. Contrast.

Regards

John S. Douglas, Photographer
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.darkroompro.com" target="_blank">http://www.darkroompro.com</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

One thing I like about T-Max developer is that it is a liquid. Easy
to mix any quantity you need. Be sure and double check your
developing times. Kodak recently changed many of their films, and the
new films may have different development times.
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

John <john.DeleteThis@darkroompro.com> wrote:
: On 10 Jul 2003 00:13:14 GMT, erinnerd.DeleteThis@aol.com (Erinnerd) wrote:

:>Hi, I apologize in advance for what is probably a really dumb question. See,
:>last year I took my first formal photography class, during which I developed
:>and printed using nothing but Tri-X film (iso400). Now that I am done with my
:>class and looking to develop on my own, I'm kind of at a loss. In my everday
:>life, I very frequently use Tmax 3200 film, and was wondering, besides
:>developing times, are there any huge differences in technique/materials that I
:>will need to adapt to?

: There are differences and then there are differences but I believe that
: you'll find T-Max films to be somewhat better in nearly every way. Image
: sharpness. Film speed. Granularity. Contrast.

I'm going to have to agree that Tmax100 is the finest film available. Add
tonality that needs to be seen to be believed, and responsivness to zone
system controls to your list.
--




Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
-------------------
fwp.DeleteThis@deepthought.com
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film 

 >ondering, besides
 >developing times, are there any huge differences in technique/materials that
 >I
 >will need to adapt to?

The big difference beteen Tmax films and older films such as Tri-X and Plus-X
is that the T-max films are much more sensitive to processing variations than
the older films are. Tri-X, for example, is quite tolerant of minor processing
variations between rolls or sheets: a degree or two difference between
temperatures doesn't make that much difference. With T-max it does make more
of a difference.

Once you've found a good way of processing T-max (something that gives you the
results you want with the equipment you have,) you will find that to get the
same results you have to repeat the processing almost exactly to get similar
results. Same temperature, same agitation, everything.

T-max films are also a little harder on fixer than the older films are. That
is, T-max appears to deplete fixer more rapidly, so you can't process as much
film with the same amount of chemistry.

Mike
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: developing w/ tmax film