"narke" <steven.DeleteThis@lczmsoft.com> wrote in message
news:1112773377.599409.267780@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>I decided to throw away D-76d 1:1 developer every time
>after
> processing. But for the fixer and stop solution, can I
> reuse them? If
> I can, how many times can I reuse them before throw out?
> Thanks
>
> -
> narke
>
Stop bath is not worth saving although it will last. Stick
you fingers into it. If it feels "sticky" its still acid. If
not its neutralized.
F-5 is the same as packaged Kodak Fixer. The life is
several months in a bottle. Capacity depends on many
factors. For archival fixing the capacity of a single bath
is very small, no more than 10 8x10 sheets of printing paper
per _gallon_ according to Ilford. This capacity can be
increased by around ten times by using two successive baths
and even more if a wash aid is used before washing.
While there are several tests for fixer baths the best
method is to test the fixed out material for residual silver
halide. The test is a simple one. A test solution is made up
of either Sodium sulfide (not sulfite) or Kodak Rapid
Selenium Toner diluted 1:9. The toner test works only when
the paper or film has been well washed. For testing the film
or paper must be wet but surface moisture should be blotted
off.
A drop or two of the test solution is placed in a clear
area of the print or film and allowed to stand for two
minutes. It is then rinsed off and the paper or film
examined for any stain. Hold film against a white surface to
make any staining show up more. Completely fixed film or
paper will show no stain.
Other tests for fixing baths are: A Potassium iodide
solution. If there is much dissolved halide in the fixer it
will combine with the iodide test solution to form insoluble
silver iodide which will precipitate in the form of a cream
colored cloud which does not recombine after shaking. The
amount of dissolved silver necessary to make the reaction
depends on the dilution of the test solution. A simpler test
is to measure the clearing time of film. Soak a scrap of
film in water for two or three minutes. The immerse it in
_fresh_ fixer to be tested. Measure the time it takes for
the film to become completely clear. Note this time.
periodically retest using the same kind of film. When the
clearing time doubles discard the fixer. For archival fixing
this is too insensitive.
Again, the best test is the residual silver test since
that is measuring the actual effect of the fixer, not some
indirect factor.
Kodak Residual Silver Test Solution ST-1
Water 100.0 ml
Sodium Sulfide (anhydrous) 2.0 grams
This will keep in a filled bottle for about 3 months.
The Iodide test for fixers is simple but the instructions
in the Kodak _Darkroom Data Guide_ appear to be in error.
This recommends testing the first bath the same way as a
single bath is tested. The first bath of a two bath fixer
should be capable of a much greater silver load than a
single bath. Perhaps this indicates the test is not
sensitive enough for archival fixing with a single bath.
The formula is:
Kodak Fixer Test Solution FT-1
Water, at 80F (27C) 750.0 ml
Potassium Iodide 190.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter
This is a lifetime supply. I recommend making up no more
than 100 ml at a time.
Testing a single bath fixer:
Take 5 drops of the test solution and add 5 drops of water.
The add 5 drops of fixer. If a yellow-white preciptate forms
and does not immediately disappear discard the fixer.
For a two bath system replace the first bath with the second
bath and replace the second bath with a fresh bath.
This cycle can be repeated five times. The fifth time
replace both baths with fresh baths.
This same system will work with Ammonium thiosulfate
(rapid fixer) also.
Because a sulfite wash aid, like Kodak Hypo Clearing
Agent, will make some otherwise insoluble fixer reaction
products soluble it will further increase the capacity of a
fixing bath.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk.DeleteThis@ix.netcom.com<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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