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Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1

 
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AAvK

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Since: Jan 14, 2008
Posts: 7



(Msg. 1) Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:27 pm
Post subject: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1
Archived from groups: rec>photo>equipment>large-format (more info?)

Hello LF public

I recently bought a very old GTR triple convertable (5x5 glass), have been reading
about them in public forums by search in Google and learnt that they have bad
"chromatic aberation" (as it were), so it is necassary to use a yellow, orange or red
filter on the front or back for sharpness. I read one fellow uses green.

I would like to know which glass does what with which color of the spectrum so as
to klnow which color filter to use! This would be interesting. I would use the filter
on the front because I could also screw a lens shade into the filter. I wonder if I
could find such an adapter for the front, if the front cell were not in use.

But, this lens is a series II No. 1 patented in 1895, yet the rims do not state either
of the focal lengths, and they are in an old wollensak Regno shutter (working!),
which must have been a later adaptation, it has a proper triple aperture scale in
brass (fancy work!).

Would anyone know the focal lengths, and whether a cable or air hose can be
adapted? It does have push button type finger release(s).

Any help much appreciated,

--
Giant_Alex }<)))*>
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - com

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AAvK

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Since: Jan 14, 2008
Posts: 7



(Msg. 2) Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:37 am
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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> some snipping of my stuff here...
>> --
>> Giant_Alex }<)))*>
>> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
> I suspect this is a later version of the Regno than the
> one I was looking at. The publication this is in is dated
> 1917. The Optimo was another shutter also made by Wollensak.
> Older versions have a cocking lever at top right but later
> ones have a push-button and a matching button for tripping.
> This sounds similar.

It exactly does.

> The hole near the tripping button is probably for a
> fitting for a cable release. The later version probably no
> longer has the air cylinder for an air release.

Okay, but there are no threads there.

> You may want to open the shutter to see what's in it.
> The front of the Regno is held in place by three screws on
> the back.
> There are some early Gundlach and Wollensak catalogues
> on the Camera Eccentric site at:
>
> http://www.cameraeccentric.com I think he may also have
> the booklet on serviceing "Inter-Lens Shutters" on that
> site, I know I've seen in on-line somewhere.

Yes I saw it, it seems there are two pages for each shutter, one is
text and the other shows the workings with the cover removed.
Doesn't make sense.

> My Gundlach catalogue which is dated March 1926 shows
> the No.1 T-R to be a 6-3/4 inch lens for 4x5 plates. The
> individual cells are: Front, 14" Rear, 11" Does that sound
> right for your lens?

Actually I havn't received the lens yet, it is in transport via UPS
and will be here tomorrow on the 18th. I have seen other images
of GTRs showing letter engravings on the outer side of the rims
which are not showing in pics I did see, which I saved to my hard
drive. I must have a pretty early one. But they they made them
for a long enough time and must have been kept as standards for
model numbers, I suspect it must be the same as your '26 catalogue.
Which is fine with me, I have "something" of a 4x5... lol.

> --
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk.DeleteThis@ix.netcom.com
>
>

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dickburk

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Since: Jul 01, 2004
Posts: 1173



(Msg. 3) Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:25 am
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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"AAvK" <notforspam.DeleteThis@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:L7Ojj.1802$855.709@newsfe12.phx...
>
>> some snipping of my stuff here...
>>> --
>>> Giant_Alex }<)))*>
>>> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>>
>> I suspect this is a later version of the Regno than
>> the one I was looking at. The publication this is in is
>> dated 1917. The Optimo was another shutter also made by
>> Wollensak. Older versions have a cocking lever at top
>> right but later ones have a push-button and a matching
>> button for tripping. This sounds similar.
>
> It exactly does.
>
>> The hole near the tripping button is probably for a
>> fitting for a cable release. The later version probably
>> no longer has the air cylinder for an air release.
>
> Okay, but there are no threads there.
>
The fitting may be missing. On most shutters the cable
release socket is a separate part held in with a nut or clip
or some other way. I've had to makeshift sockets for a
couple of Ilex shutters were they were missing.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk.DeleteThis@ix.netcom.com
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AAvK

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Since: Jan 14, 2008
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:19 pm
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

>> Okay, but there are no threads there.
>>
> The fitting may be missing. On most shutters the cable
> release socket is a separate part held in with a nut or clip
> or some other way. I've had to makeshift sockets for a
> couple of Ilex shutters were they were missing.

Ya know what? I just got the lens, and in that hole there ARE threads there!
They just didn't show it in the shots they took for ebay. But the threads are
different than the modern tapered standard, just no taper, straight walls with
threads. I attempted to use a tapered thread cable release, the threads at the
widest did catch at the top of the hole and it did trip the shutter but I know
now that I need a short throw / short pin type, with this older style of non
tapered thread. Do you know what I can do about that? Or, where the right
one can be found? Maybe a bushing adapter is out there?

The glass in this lens is beautiful to look at, though there is some crystalization
of the adhesive they used, around the edges of the front cell. A very little
around the rear cell's edge, it's workable (the seller dod not reveal this on their
page). No yellowing in the glass ttlg. A bit of a stop-down should cancel any
possible effect.

This is a very small lens and shutter! So it must be for 4x5 indeed. The front
cell is 14" and the rear is 11" just as you described! 6-3/4" together. So that's
171.45mm, 279.4mm, and 355.6 - all with an image circle that will cover 4x5"
only? Would you know what the image circles are, from your books?

The Regno works like a charm all around, but not tight like a newer one, or a
compound. Definitely light-tight though, I took a good close look using light.
The two patent dates are as follows: May 30 1911 and Aug 13 1912. So this
shutter is around 100 years old. Lovely device.

> --
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk.DeleteThis@ix.netcom.com
>

--
Giant_Alex }<)))*>
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
 >> Stay informed about: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 
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dickburk

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Since: Jul 01, 2004
Posts: 1173



(Msg. 5) Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:47 am
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"AAvK" <notforspam RemoveThis @nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:HDgkj.1102$Ca7.211@newsfe07.phx...
>
>>> Okay, but there are no threads there.
>>>
>> The fitting may be missing. On most shutters the cable
>> release socket is a separate part held in with a nut or
>> clip or some other way. I've had to makeshift sockets for
>> a couple of Ilex shutters were they were missing.
>
> Ya know what? I just got the lens, and in that hole there
> ARE threads there!
> They just didn't show it in the shots they took for ebay.
> But the threads are
> different than the modern tapered standard, just no taper,
> straight walls with
> threads. I attempted to use a tapered thread cable
> release, the threads at the
> widest did catch at the top of the hole and it did trip
> the shutter but I know now that I need a short throw /
> short pin type, with this older style of non tapered
> thread. Do you know what I can do about that? Or, where
> the right
> one can be found? Maybe a bushing adapter is out there?
>
> The glass in this lens is beautiful to look at, though
> there is some crystalization
> of the adhesive they used, around the edges of the front
> cell. A very little around the rear cell's edge, it's
> workable (the seller dod not reveal this on their
> page). No yellowing in the glass ttlg. A bit of a
> stop-down should cancel any
> possible effect.
>
> This is a very small lens and shutter! So it must be for
> 4x5 indeed. The front
> cell is 14" and the rear is 11" just as you described!
> 6-3/4" together. So that's 171.45mm, 279.4mm, and 355.6 -
> all with an image circle that will cover 4x5"
> only? Would you know what the image circles are, from
> your books?
>
> The Regno works like a charm all around, but not tight
> like a newer one, or a compound. Definitely light-tight
> though, I took a good close look using light.
> The two patent dates are as follows: May 30 1911 and Aug
> 13 1912. So this
> shutter is around 100 years old. Lovely device.
>
Congratulations:-)
Beware of dating something by patent dates. I think some
products carried the patent dates or numbers long after the
patents expired. I don't know what the law was on this. A
patent date rather than a number indicates the object was
made before 1927. The patent law was changed then to require
the actual patent number although one could still mark the
date also. Patents in the US have a life of 17 years (some
exceptions now) so a patent issued in 1911 would have run
out in 1928. I suspect the lens and shutter are later rather
than earlier due to the shutter having a cable release
rather than an air release.
Since the T-R lens has four cemented surfaces in each
cell you are doing pretty well to have only slight cement
damage. I am not sure why some lenses seem more vulnerable
to this than others but some of the factors are, the quality
of the canada balsam used, the method of curing it, the
ability of the edge paint to seal the edge from the air. The
cleanliness of the glass surfaces before they were cemented
are also important.
The T-R has a coverage of perhaps 75 or 80 degrees when
the two cells are combined. This is at a fairly small stop,
perhaps f/45. The individual cells have much smaller
coverage, perhaps half of the combined lens, so they won't
cover much more than the "normal" format of the combined
lens.
Like other lenses of this general sort (Dagor,
Convertible Protar, etc.) the lens is somewhat of a wide
angle lens, that is, it covers a pretty wide angle, but the
stop used will depend on the angle. For "normal" the optimum
stop is probably around f/16 to f/22. When used at maximum
coverage its around f/45. The individual cells are much
slower than the combined lens and generally will be sharp at
around f/36 to f/45. Stops smaller than about f/45 can be
used, especially for depth of field, but the diffraction
blur is usually enough to be visible on the ground glass and
will be visible in prints.
Gundlach made some extreme claims for the lens
especially for its coverage, but they simply are not so.
However, its a perfectly usable lens. Note that while the
cells are intended to be used behind the stop they can also
be used in front. Theoretically the performance should be
better when behind the stop but in practice there is not
much difference. However the bellows draw is significantly
shorter when in front so its sometimes possible to use the
longest FL cell this way when the camera does not have
enough bellows draw to permit it to be used in its normal
position. Again theoretically the speed will be slightly
greater when in front but the difference is probably not
significant in practice.
As I mentioned Wollensak made good shutters although
some of their lenses were dogs (but not all). Probably the
most famous of the old Wollensak shutters was the Optimo.
This shutter was made with shutter blades which turned 180
degrees when the shutter was tripped (and went back the
other way the next time it was tripped). This allowed the
shutter to have higher speeds than standard shutters
although the highest speeds marked on some of them is purely
wishful thinking.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk RemoveThis @ix.netcom.com
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user

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Since: Jan 08, 2008
Posts: 60



(Msg. 6) Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:46 am
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"AAvK" <notforspam.RemoveThis@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:L1djj.926$Ca7.438@newsfe07.phx...

> What about for mono films? I think because of this problem I
> would never use this lens for color films!

I took it that Richard was addressing B&W. If aberation occurs in a
particular color for which the film is sensitive, a correcting filter will
help.

Black & White film is sensitive to color (obviously) and not equally
sensitive to all colors. Filters are important.
 >> Stay informed about: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 
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Since: Dec 31, 2007
Posts: 133



(Msg. 7) Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:08 pm
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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In article <13r8viujmvit6e0.RemoveThis@news.supernews.com>, <jjs> wrote:

> "AAvK" <notforspam.RemoveThis@nowhere.net> wrote in message
> news:L1djj.926$Ca7.438@newsfe07.phx...
>
> > What about for mono films? I think because of this problem I
> > would never use this lens for color films!
>
> I took it that Richard was addressing B&W. If aberation occurs in a
> particular color for which the film is sensitive, a correcting filter will
> help.
>
> Black & White film is sensitive to color (obviously) and not equally
> sensitive to all colors. Filters are important.

In my early day of LF photography

I once bought an ARTAR that was supposed to be a good lens and covered
8x10, it sucked royally for B&W all kinds of ghosting on b&w even when
pointed 180 degrees away from the sun on a cloudy day. The bastard I
bought from extracted a 50 dollar restock fee out the 350 dollar check I
bought with even after I had to pester him for about 3 months to refund
my money.

I can think of only one nice thing to say about him: Cocks---er, may he
rest in pieces.

--
Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back.
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dickburk

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Since: Jul 01, 2004
Posts: 1173



(Msg. 8) Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 1:51 pm
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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"____" <internetphobic.DeleteThis@deletedmail.com> wrote in message
news:internetphobic-4F68B9.19084014022008@newsgroups.comcast.net...
> In article <13r8viujmvit6e0.DeleteThis@news.supernews.com>, <jjs>
> wrote:
>
>> "AAvK" <notforspam.DeleteThis@nowhere.net> wrote in message
>> news:L1djj.926$Ca7.438@newsfe07.phx...
>>
>> > What about for mono films? I think because of this
>> > problem I
>> > would never use this lens for color films!
>>
>> I took it that Richard was addressing B&W. If aberation
>> occurs in a
>> particular color for which the film is sensitive, a
>> correcting filter will
>> help.
>>
>> Black & White film is sensitive to color (obviously) and
>> not equally
>> sensitive to all colors. Filters are important.
>
> In my early day of LF photography
>
> I once bought an ARTAR that was supposed to be a good lens
> and covered
> 8x10, it sucked royally for B&W all kinds of ghosting on
> b&w even when
> pointed 180 degrees away from the sun on a cloudy day. The
> bastard I
> bought from extracted a 50 dollar restock fee out the 350
> dollar check I
> bought with even after I had to pester him for about 3
> months to refund
> my money.
>
> I can think of only one nice thing to say about him:
> Cocks---er, may he
> rest in pieces.
>
> --
The Apo Artar is a four element air spaced lens with
eight glass-air surfaces. It does have some flare but should
not have bad ghost images. I have two, one a very old
uncoated lens from the 1920's. Its very sharp and has good
contrast. The other is from the 1960's and is coated so it
has little flare.
Note that while both flare and ghost images come from
internal reflections and are helped by coating they are not
quite the same. Most flare is in the form of an overall
diffuse field of light all over the image while ghost images
are fairly sharp, or at least recognizable, images in the
image field of bright objects either in the image or just
outside of it. Ghosting is usuallyu due to the design of the
lens rather than just having glass-air surfaces. Both flare
and ghosting can also be cause by reflections from the
inside of the lens barrel or cells or from the inside of the
shutter. I would say your experience with the Artar is
unusual.
The Apo Artar was designed for use on process cameras.
These were used for making printing plates, or rather,
negatives used to expose the photo-resists that were used to
control the etching of the plates. Process lenses are
designed to work best at magnifications near unity. The
Artar is designed for three-color work where the color
separation negatives must all be in focus and be of exactly
the same size. Although the lens is optimized for equal
object and image distance (unity magnification) it performs
very well even at infinity focus if stopped down a bit.
One cause of flare in lenses is haze but this won't
cause ghost images. Haze seems to form on many lenses with
time. I am not sure of the cause but the haze is easily
removed with any lens cleaner. The problem is getting to the
inside surfaces. Most Artars have back caps on the cells so
that cleaning the insides is not difficult.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk.DeleteThis@ix.netcom.com
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dickburk

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Since: Jul 01, 2004
Posts: 1173



(Msg. 9) Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 2:08 pm
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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<jjs> wrote in message
news:13r8viujmvit6e0@news.supernews.com...
> "AAvK" <notforspam RemoveThis @nowhere.net> wrote in message
> news:L1djj.926$Ca7.438@newsfe07.phx...
>
>> What about for mono films? I think because of this
>> problem I
>> would never use this lens for color films!
>
> I took it that Richard was addressing B&W. If aberation
> occurs in a particular color for which the film is
> sensitive, a correcting filter will help.
>
> Black & White film is sensitive to color (obviously) and
> not equally sensitive to all colors. Filters are
> important.
>
>
Lack of color correction affects both B&W and color
although it manifests itself in different ways. Lenses have
two kinds of color aberration: one is longitudinal chromatic
aberration, the other is lateral chromatic aberration. The
first is the one we usually think of where the lens focuses
different colors at different distances: in effect the focal
length changes with color. This is inherent due to the
characteristics of glass and is reduced by balancing the
dispersion of the positive and negative elements by choosing
the kinds of glass used for them. The newer low-dispersion
glasses make the job of correcting color while maintaning
other corrections easier.
Lateral color is a difference in the _size_ of images at
different colors. The images are all in focus but different
in size so that there is still fringing. In fact, because
the images are all sharp the fringing may be more noticable.
Lateral color can be reduced by symmetry or by choice of
glass types. In non-symmetrical lenses it is sometimes
difficult to correct.
In a convertible lens, where the cells are similar but
can be used alone the correction for lateral color due to
symmetry is lost when only one cell is used. Some of these
lenses have cells which are corrected fairly well and others
show considerable color fringing when single cells are used
but all are inferior to the complete lens (two cells).
Color problems may actually be more appearant in B&W
because the film records everything at once and the eye can
not longer ignore some of the information at it can in color
pictures.
Now, if the colors recorded throught an aberrated lens
are limited the aberration will have less effect. Some very
old lenses are not very corrected for the red end of the
spectrum because before about the mid 1920's most film was
orthochromatic (not sensitive to red) or even "ordinary"
(not sensitize to any color but blue). A filter which
reduces red light may make such lenses sharper. Green
filters cut off some blue light and some red light so are
good choices where a lens has serious chromatic aberration.
A cyan filter will somewhat duplicate orthochromatic film
and will usually also improve sharpness when the lens has
some chromatic aberration.
My experience with the T-R lens is that the individual
cells have very noticable color fringing. The Zeiss
Convertible Protar is better although still having some
fringing. Even the older convertible version of the
Schneider Symmar has some fringing, actually a little worse
than the Protar.
A general purpose lens which was very well corrected for
both kinds of color aberration is the Kodak Commercial
Ektar. These are Tessar types and don't have the advantage
of symmetry but were very carefully designed to eliminate
color problems because they were intended to promote the use
of color film for commercial photography. Most symmetrical
or nearly symmetrical lenses have good correction for
lateral color, the Goerz Dagor, Dogmar and of course Artar
being examples.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk RemoveThis @ix.netcom.com
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AAvK

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Since: Jan 14, 2008
Posts: 7



(Msg. 10) Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:13 pm
Post subject: Re: Lens question please_Gundlach, Turner-Reich series II No. 1 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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[uppersnip]
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk.TakeThisOut@ix.netcom.com
>
>

Richard! So sorry for being so late, but it dawned on me to thank you very much for
your great and terrific help and for the sharing of knowledge, awesome kindness.

Thank you, very very much.


Regards,

--
Giant_Alex }<)))*>
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
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