Lens advice, please

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:08:30 -0600, "Roger N. Clark (change username
to rnclark)" wrote:

 >Kate wrote:
  >>
  >> This will be my third year photographing odonata, but the first using
  >> a digital SLR with zoom. I have been using a Coolpix 4500 which is
  >> very good for close-ups, but it was because I had to stalk them in
  >> order to get close that I decided to get a camera to which I could
  >> attach a long lens. I did get lucky several times - one dragonfly
  >> even landed on my knee so I got some good `portrait` shots, and a pair
  >> of Anax Imperators `in cop` were so engrossed I could have shoved the
  >> lens up the male`s nose, if it had one! I have not taken any shots of
  >> dragonflies in flight, or even attempted it, although I might try this
  >> year. I do get somewhat despondent if I am out for hours and don`t
  >> get anything, but the sense of achievement when I do is very
  >> satisfying. That is why I prefer to take my photos in the wild. If I
  >> went to an aviary or butterfly house, or photographed captive
  >> dragonflies, I wouldn`t get that feeling of accomplishment.
  >>
  >> I have only just started photographing birds, and we do have feeders
  >> in the garden, but the species of birds visiting is quite limited. I
  >> intend to get out and about to find more species, so a long lens will
  >> be important unless I am very lucky indeed.
  >>
  >> I have never had such an expensive hobby (obsession?) before, so I
  >> have to think very hard before buying extra equipment. I can
  >> understand the need to always want something better or different to
  >> get that elusive shot. However, I have always said that in order to
  >> do the job properly, you have to have the right tools, otherwise you
  >> usually end up bodging it, which is what I feel I am doing at the
  >> moment.
  >>
  >> I have been on a very steep learning curve for the past few weeks and
  >> all the responses to my original query have given me plenty to think
  >> about. Improving my technique should be my first priority, I suspect,
  >> but I still feel that better glass will give me sharper shots,
  >> regardless of which length I eventually decide to go for. Maybe then,
  >> if I do have to crop, there won`t be so many imperfections to
  >> exaggerate by having to sharpen so much.
  >>
  >> with thanks and best wishes to all
  >> Kate
 >
Hi Kate. I like to do bugs and birds. I have previously used a sony
f707 for bugs because of the really short focus distance. On my
20d i have a 75x300 is ef lens. It doesn't make it - particularly
with birds - they are a bit more sentient. The people i see getting
nice macros use a 300 and up with generally a 1.4 teleconverter.
The faster the lens, the better. Ususally they manually focus because
the auto takes too long and isn't as consistent.. Sooo..more than 300
and fast...better than f4 if you can afford it . I suspect a tripod
when possible is the way yo go. Alot of patience..and perhaps
bait. I agree with your conclusion on glass.

If you can kill a particular bug...a really great technique is to pin
it down and take 6 or 20 shots with varying focus lengths. Then
composit them to get really super dof. That's part of it right there.

Good luck and if in your search you have any suggestions, would
be glad to hear them.

rgds
Ken

"Ken Ellis" wrote in message

 > On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:08:30 -0600, "Roger N. Clark (change username

 >
 > Hi Kate. I like to do bugs and birds. I have previously used a sony
 > f707 for bugs because of the really short focus distance. On my
 > 20d i have a 75x300 is ef lens. It doesn't make it - particularly
 > with birds - they are a bit more sentient. The people i see getting
 > nice macros use a 300 and up with generally a 1.4 teleconverter.
 > The faster the lens, the better. Ususally they manually focus
 > because
 > the auto takes too long and isn't as consistent.. Sooo..more than
 > 300
 > and fast...better than f4 if you can afford it . I suspect a tripod
 > when possible is the way yo go. Alot of patience..and perhaps
 > bait. I agree with your conclusion on glass.
 >
 > If you can kill a particular bug...a really great technique is to
 > pin
 > it down and take 6 or 20 shots with varying focus lengths. Then
 > composit them to get really super dof. That's part of it right
 > there.
 >
 > Good luck and if in your search you have any suggestions, would
 > be glad to hear them.
 >
 > rgds
 > Ken

Firstly, to Roger : thank you for letting me see the images of the
lorikeet. They look super so I think that the 300mm L prime with TC
could be the way for me to go, although I shall probably keep the
75-300 IS USM for use at the lower end, where it is supposed to be
sharper. Thank you for all your help.

Ken : last year I was using a Nikon Coolpix 4500 for the dragonflies
and got some good, sharp images - whenever I could get close enough.
For macro work, the Nikon is very good, I think, and it will focus at
2cm from the subject. I shall probably only use it for that now. I
caught a hovering Southern Hawker dragonfly last year (fastest hand in
the west - of England!) and held it in the prescribed manner in one
hand, while taking shots with the Coolpix with the other. I couldn`t
have done that with the Canon. Nor could I haved killed it; also, most
dragonflies lose their colours very rapidly after death. One of the
difficulties I have is the unreliability of the English summer
weather, but, although I would not say that I am a particularly
patient person, I am very tenacious and won`t give up until I`ve got
the shot I want. I am hoping that with a telephoto I won`t have to
wait so long...

best wishes
Kate