C4-1 at home

"Peter De Smidt" <usenet DeleteThis @_spam_desmidt.net> wrote in message
news:vl00tv0d15t7d8rvqp141usf3oca6k5k15@4ax.com...
 > Alas, I'm without a 35mm camera, and I need to take some color
 > pictures, which means using 120 film. Looking at the cost that
 > professional labs charge has motivated me to look into developing C41
 > at home. I have a Jobo CPP2, and I've made color prints before, but I
 > haven't developed C41 film myself. My problem is that I don't really
 > shoot that much color film, and so I usually end up wasting chemicals.
 > Does anyone have any suggestions regarding economical chemicals? How
 > long do the chemicals keep once mixed up? Any other helpful advice
 > would be appreciated.
 >
 > -Peter De Smidt

Peter,

If you were in Europe, I'd recommend Tetenal Color Tabs for C-41:~(

However, Tetenal makes a 1 Liter C-41 Powder Kit good for 6 to 8 35mm/120
films. Price is about $16.00 from B&H. Tetenal color chemistry is as good
as anyone else's and if you follow the package instructions with your CPP,
you won't have a problem. Good looking negatives as well. Be careful, you
just may find out it's so easy you'll never go to a lab for negative
developing again...

Jim



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 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

On 5 Dec 2003 08:39:10 GMT, "Jim Phelps" <Jim.Phelps DeleteThis @MI.com> wrote:

 >
 >"Peter De Smidt" <usenet DeleteThis @_spam_desmidt.net> wrote in message
 >news:vl00tv0d15t7d8rvqp141usf3oca6k5k15@4ax.com...
  >> Alas, I'm without a 35mm camera, and I need to take some color
  >> pictures, which means using 120 film. Looking at the cost that
  >> professional labs charge has motivated me to look into developing C41
  >> at home. I have a Jobo CPP2, and I've made color prints before, but I
  >> haven't developed C41 film myself. My problem is that I don't really
  >> shoot that much color film, and so I usually end up wasting chemicals.
  >> Does anyone have any suggestions regarding economical chemicals? How
  >> long do the chemicals keep once mixed up? Any other helpful advice
  >> would be appreciated.
  >>
  >> -Peter De Smidt
 >
 >Peter,
 >
 > If you were in Europe, I'd recommend Tetenal Color Tabs for C-41:~(
 >
 > However, Tetenal makes a 1 Liter C-41 Powder Kit good for 6 to 8 35mm/120
 >films. Price is about $16.00 from B&H. Tetenal color chemistry is as good
 >as anyone else's and if you follow the package instructions with your CPP,
 >you won't have a problem. Good looking negatives as well. Be careful, you
 >just may find out it's so easy you'll never go to a lab for negative
 >developing again...
 >
 >Jim

Jim's right: I'm in the USA. I do wish that the Tetenal Color Tabs
were available, as they sound great. How long do the chemicals keep
when mixed up? I suppose that I could wait until I have 6 to 8 rolls,
but I'm impatient!

Thanks, everyone, for the tips.
-Peter<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

Peter, Would it not be more prudent to just send the film to a lab that does
this all day every day? That would be my bet.

lee\c
"Peter De Smidt" <usenet.DeleteThis@_spam_desmidt.net> wrote in message
news:r881tv8u044sb6f2h0359lhncstimomlkv@4ax.com...
 > On 5 Dec 2003 08:39:10 GMT, "Jim Phelps" <Jim.Phelps.DeleteThis@MI.com> wrote:
 >
  > >
  > >"Peter De Smidt" <usenet.DeleteThis@_spam_desmidt.net> wrote in message
  > >news:vl00tv0d15t7d8rvqp141usf3oca6k5k15@4ax.com...
   > >> Alas, I'm without a 35mm camera, and I need to take some color
   > >> pictures, which means using 120 film. Looking at the cost that
   > >> professional labs charge has motivated me to look into developing C41
   > >> at home. I have a Jobo CPP2, and I've made color prints before, but I
   > >> haven't developed C41 film myself. My problem is that I don't really
   > >> shoot that much color film, and so I usually end up wasting chemicals.
   > >> Does anyone have any suggestions regarding economical chemicals? How
   > >> long do the chemicals keep once mixed up? Any other helpful advice
   > >> would be appreciated.
   > >>
   > >> -Peter De Smidt
  > >
  > >Peter,
  > >
  > > If you were in Europe, I'd recommend Tetenal Color Tabs for C-41:~(
  > >
  > > However, Tetenal makes a 1 Liter C-41 Powder Kit good for 6 to 8
35mm/120
  > >films. Price is about $16.00 from B&H. Tetenal color chemistry is as
good
  > >as anyone else's and if you follow the package instructions with your
CPP,
  > >you won't have a problem. Good looking negatives as well. Be careful,
you
  > >just may find out it's so easy you'll never go to a lab for negative
  > >developing again...
  > >
  > >Jim
 >
 > Jim's right: I'm in the USA. I do wish that the Tetenal Color Tabs
 > were available, as they sound great. How long do the chemicals keep
 > when mixed up? I suppose that I could wait until I have 6 to 8 rolls,
 > but I'm impatient!
 >
 > Thanks, everyone, for the tips.
 > -Peter<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

"Peter De Smidt" <usenet.TakeThisOut@_spam_desmidt.net> wrote in message
news:vl00tv0d15t7d8rvqp141usf3oca6k5k15@4ax.com...
 > Alas, I'm without a 35mm camera, and I need to take some color
 > pictures, which means using 120 film. Looking at the cost that
 > professional labs charge has motivated me to look into developing C41
 > at home. I have a Jobo CPP2, and I've made color prints before, but I
 > haven't developed C41 film myself. My problem is that I don't really
 > shoot that much color film, and so I usually end up wasting chemicals.
 > Does anyone have any suggestions regarding economical chemicals? How
 > long do the chemicals keep once mixed up? Any other helpful advice
 > would be appreciated.
 >
 > -Peter De Smidt

Peter,
Try the Tetenal Press Kit. It is a 1 liter package containing three
powders. It will do 12 rolls of 120 if you re-use it but at $16 is cheap
enough to use one-shot if your 120 tank can take two rolls.

Once mixed it will keep 6 weeks in "brimful stoppered plastic or glass
bottles" according to Jobo.

Sherman
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.dunnamphoto.com" target="_blank">http://www.dunnamphoto.com</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

On Fri, 5 Dec 2003 09:41:09 -0600, <Lee Carmichael.TakeThisOut@charter.net> wrote:

 >Peter, Would it not be more prudent to just send the film to a lab that does
 >this [develop c41]all day every day? That would be my bet.
 >
 >lee\c

I'd like to be able to drive somewhere close and have them develop the
120 film. There is no such place. My next choice would be to send
the film to a good lab. So far, my internet searching has only
produced expensive results. I think that $6 dollars per roll plus $6
shipping, this is without having any prints made, is quite high. When
I do something like produce my families Christmas picture, I usually
shoot 72 frames or so. In 120, that's 6 rolls. It looks like I can
defvelop this for about $2 - $3 dollars a roll, with no shipping
charges. I'll keep looking for a more realistic lab, but if I don't
find one, I'll do it myself.

-Peter<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

Have you <gasp> considered doing B&W, especially with 120 roll film? I
develop film at my summer cottage with nothing more profound that a
changing bag, an old Nikor tank, reel, Rodinol, Kodak stop bath, and a
bottle of Hypo. The Rodinol and stop bath concentrate keep forever,
and the hypo is cheap enough to chuck after developing a couple of
roll. I then print them up when I get back to home base.
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

Am Fre, 05 Dez 2003 um 04:06 GMT,
schrieb Peter De Smidt <usenet.TakeThisOut@_spam_desmidt.net>:
 > Does anyone have any suggestions regarding economical chemicals? How
 > long do the chemicals keep once mixed up? Any other helpful advice
 > would be appreciated.

1. Tetenal Tabs

2. Amaloco Monocolor. Same as Dilucolor (by Phototec). You only mix up
what you need.

Alex
--
Alexander Selzer <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.grosskabinett.de/" target="_blank">http://www.grosskabinett.de/</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

Paul W. Ross wrote:
 > Have you <gasp> considered doing B&W, especially with 120 roll film? I
 > develop film at my summer cottage with nothing more profound that a
 > changing bag, an old Nikor tank, reel, Rodinol, Kodak stop bath, and a
 > bottle of Hypo. The Rodinol and stop bath concentrate keep forever,
 > and the hypo is cheap enough to chuck after developing a couple of
 > roll. I then print them up when I get back to home base.

Why even bother with the stop bath?! Just use water!<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

On 5 Dec 2003 12:18:04 -0800, pross.DeleteThis@dejazzd.com (Paul W. Ross) wrote:

 >Have you <gasp> considered doing B&W, especially with 120 roll film? I
 >develop film at my summer cottage with nothing more profound that a
 >changing bag, an old Nikor tank, reel, Rodinol, Kodak stop bath, and a
 >bottle of Hypo. The Rodinol and stop bath concentrate keep forever,
 >and the hypo is cheap enough to chuck after developing a couple of
 >roll. I then print them up when I get back to home base.

I develop and print BW film and paper regularly. It is my preferred
medium. However, it is not my extended family's favorite medium for
family photographs. The picture in question is going to be my family
christmas picture, and, like always, it's going to involve my daugher
who has beautiful red hair. Yes, I take bw pictures of her regularly,
but for this purpose I'm going to use color print film.

-Peter De Smidt<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

I've just realized that RA-4 paper is now cheaper than black-and-white
paper, and that Tetenal's and Paterson's room-temperature RA-4 kits are easy
to use. The only big difference between this and black-and-white is that
the paper has to be processed in total darkness (which is easily done by
processing it in a drum). So even I may take the plunge...

Any thoughts?
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

Michael A. Covington <look RemoveThis @www.covingtoninnovations.com.for.address> wrote:
 > I've just realized that RA-4 paper is now cheaper than black-and-white
 > paper, and that Tetenal's and Paterson's room-temperature RA-4 kits are easy
 > to use. The only big difference between this and black-and-white is that
 > the paper has to be processed in total darkness (which is easily done by
 > processing it in a drum). So even I may take the plunge...
 >
 > Any thoughts?


Pro colour paper seems cheaper then the average B&W RC paper. I've been
trying to get going with colour printing. Using normal Ra-4 chemicals in a
sink with a heater to keep the water at the right temp. I've just picked up
a cooler to hold the water at temps. Just using a sink works fine but I
figure the cooler will require the heater to run less. Drums are fairly
cheap on the used market. So my time in the dark is equal to the time it
takes to take the paper out of the box and then take it off the easel and
into the tank. We aren't talking a long time. Colour filtration is driving
me crazy. I'm not sure if it's the analyser,me, or the enlarger. Right now I
betting on a combination of things. Once I can get that figured out the
whole process seems fairly simple.

I don't like how thin colour paper is [Kodak supra endura?]. The
chemicals can stink. I'm using drums so cleanup time is virtually zero. The
drums get washed with the print.

Nick<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

"Michael A. Covington" <look RemoveThis @www.covingtoninnovations.com.for.address> wrote
in message news:K-idnah-nOiJZUyiU-KYhA@speedfactory.net...
 > I've just realized that RA-4 paper is now cheaper than black-and-white
 > paper, and that Tetenal's and Paterson's room-temperature RA-4 kits are
easy
 > to use. The only big difference between this and black-and-white is that
 > the paper has to be processed in total darkness (which is easily done by
 > processing it in a drum). So even I may take the plunge...
 >
 > Any thoughts?
 >
 >

Michael,

You're right, but then again, maybe not. Let me explain.

On the surface the materials are cheaper, but you'll use more of them for
that 'perfect' color print than you will to produce the perfect B&W.
Therefore, up the 'cost per print' go.

There is an alternative, and it isn't cheap either (well, used can be)
and that's to use an analyzer. More expensive does in the case equal
better. I have a Jobo Colorline 7000. Great product and it does recoup
it's cost in saved paper and chemistry. Cost of joining the club is steep
however (over $1k last time I looked).

Here's an explosion to the myth. Color is hard - not! Getting the right
colors is difficult (especially to the beginner) because everything is
backwards. If it's too yellow, add yellow! Make sense to you, well, to me
yes (I've been doing color since the days of Ektacolor 37 RC). Color can be
frustrating to a new color printer, but perseverance is the path to take.

The time it takes to develop a print is also relatively low. In a Jobo
processor running 38 degrees Celsius (Why do the Brits and Americans use a
temperature scale developed by a German and the Germans one developed by a
Brit???), you have a 1 min heatup, 45 sec Dev, 20 sec rinse or stop and 45
sec Blix. 2 minute wash and it's done and ready to dry (I use 4 X 30 sec).

It may be worth a try for you.

Jim<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home 

Jim Phelps <jim.phelps RemoveThis @mi.com> wrote:

 >
 > On the surface the materials are cheaper, but you'll use more of them for
 > that 'perfect' color print than you will to produce the perfect B&W.
 > Therefore, up the 'cost per print' go.
 >
 > There is an alternative, and it isn't cheap either (well, used can be)
 > and that's to use an analyzer. More expensive does in the case equal
 > better. I have a Jobo Colorline 7000. Great product and it does recoup
 > it's cost in saved paper and chemistry. Cost of joining the club is steep
 > however (over $1k last time I looked).


I picked up the older 3000 model for about $155 including shipping and
tax. Now figuring out how it works has been fun. If it wasn't for the fact I
managed to get it to work for B&W I'd seriously wonder if it was working at
all.

Nick<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: C4-1 at home