Welcome to PhotoForumz.com!
FAQFAQ      ProfileProfile    Private MessagesPrivate Messages   Log inLog in

A2 vs. FZ20

 
   Digital Photography Tip (Home) -> Digital Zoom RSS
Next:  Olympus 8 Megapixel Camedia C-8080 ZLR  
Author Message
wmhurst1

External


Since: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 19



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2004 1:08 pm
Post subject: A2 vs. FZ20
Archived from groups: rec>photo>digital>zlr (more info?)

As I see it there are 4 important differences between these two cameras.

1) 8 mp vs. 5 mp
2) GT lenses vs. Leica lenses
3) manual zoom vs. power zoom
4) 7X optical zoom vs. 12X optical zoom

I enjoy taking pictures of landscapes and wildlife. I want to be able to
produce quality 11x14 prints. I am concerned about the positioning of the
FZ20 zoom control. Which one and why? I am assuming that I will either use
a wide angle extension on the FZ20 or a telephoto on the A2.

 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user711

External


Since: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 604



(Msg. 2) Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 3:34 am
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Bill H. wrote:
 > As I see it there are 4 important differences between these two
 > cameras.
 > 1) 8 mp vs. 5 mp
 > 2) GT lenses vs. Leica lenses
 > 3) manual zoom vs. power zoom
 > 4) 7X optical zoom vs. 12X optical zoom
 >
 > I enjoy taking pictures of landscapes and wildlife. I want to be
 > able to produce quality 11x14 prints. I am concerned about the
 > positioning of the FZ20 zoom control. Which one and why? I am
 > assuming that I will either use a wide angle extension on the FZ20 or
 > a telephoto on the A2.

I have compared these two cameras directly, and if you are using JPEG the
quality on the A2 is worse than the FZ20. Perhaps if you use raw the
quality is OK, but I have neither the time nor the memory card capacity
for that. [I haven't printed images of that size from either camera].

Yes, the A2's zoom and EVF are nicer. The FZ20 manual focus is great.
But if you /need/ 432mm tele then only the FZ20 will do. If you /need/
28mm wide then only the A2 will do. (Personally, I avoid bulky add-on
lenses). Having handled both cameras, I think I prefer the FZ20. Both do
have good points and drawbacks. I'd suggest you try and get to a good
camera shop to see how you like the handling on each.

[Are there any reports about the comparitive life of the A2's move the CCD
anti-shake versus the FZ20's in-lens-shift-the-elements? I wonder how the
contacts are made to the moving CCD? Flexible tape? Sliding contacts?
What's the life?]

Cheers,
David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->

 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user735

External


Since: Nov 05, 2004
Posts: 16



(Msg. 3) Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 11:42 am
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

 > [David:]
 > I wonder how the contacts are made to
 > the moving CCD? Flexible tape? Sliding
 > contacts?

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.minoltaphotoworld.com/cms/441+M52087573ab0.html" target="_blank">http://www.minoltaphotoworld.com/cms/441+M52087573ab0.html</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user711

External


Since: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 604



(Msg. 4) Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 12:05 pm
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

J.S.Pitanga wrote:
  >> [David:]
  >> I wonder how the contacts are made to
  >> the moving CCD? Flexible tape? Sliding
  >> contacts?
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.minoltaphotoworld.com/cms/441+M52087573ab0.html</font" target="_blank">http://www.minoltaphotoworld.com/cms/441+M52087573ab0.html</font</a>>

Username/password required.

As you obviously do have access, what is the answer to my question? The
only article I've seen discusses the optical sensing and piezo-electric
drive, not how the power and signals are coupled to the sensor.

David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user735

External


Since: Nov 05, 2004
Posts: 16



(Msg. 5) Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 2:44 pm
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

   >>> [David:]
   >>> I wonder how the contacts are made
   >>> to the moving CCD? Flexible tape?
   >>> Sliding contacts?

  >> [J.S.Pitanga:]
<font color=green>  >> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.minoltaphotoworld.com/cms/441+M52087573ab0.html</font" target="_blank">http://www.minoltaphotoworld.com/cms/441+M52087573ab0.html</font</a>>

 > [David:]
 > Username/password required.
 >
 > As you obviously do have access, what is the
 > answer to my question? The only article I've
 > seen discusses the optical sensing and
 > piezo-electric drive, not how the power and
 > signals are coupled to the sensor.

It is beyond me to discuss this technical subject. The text found in the
above linked page is pasted below, hope it is useful. If you still want to
see the descriptive diagrams and pictures, the registering process is
painless and does not require owning a Konica or Minolta product.

J.S.Pitanga

=============================

Structure of the Anti-Shake-system

The movement of the camera is acquired with the help of two
gyroscope-sensors.

It is not only necessary to detect the angle of movement, but also the
speed of it. The signal generated by the sensors measuring the angle of
the camera is passed on to a microprocessor. The microprocessor is getting
additional data about the position of the CCD-mount from a
position-sensor. The data is passed on to the Anti-Shake processor, that
calculates the exact movement that is necessary to compensate for the
camera shake.

The whole process is happening several times in an exposure time of 1/60
seconds.

The CCD-mount is moved by piezo-motors, that have been developed
especially for the Anti-Shake-System.

The engine

The CCD-mount has to be moved extremely fast and precisely to be able to
counteract the camera movement. Regular electro-motors would be much too
slow for this task, furthermore they would be too large and inaccurate.
For that reason, for Anti-Shake the SIDM (Smooth Impact Drive Mechanism)
has been developed. The SIDM uses a piezo-element that is, despite its
extreme compact size, able to move the CCD mount fast and accurately.

The working-principle of piezo-elements is known from electronic lighters.
If a piezo-element is exposed to pressure, a voltage arises. Electronic
lighters use this voltage to generate the lighting spark.

But the effect can also be used the other way round:
If a voltage is applied to a piezo-element, it expands. If the voltage is
withdrawn, it contracts to its normal size. The CCD-mount is shifted by
expanding piezo-elements. If the piezo-element is contracting, the
CCD-mount stops moving. To move the CCD-mount in the opposite direction,
another piezo-element is necessary. This mechanism makes extreme and
accurate shifting of the CCD-mount to the correct position feasible.

Operational range of Anti-Shake

The operational range of conventional image stabilisation systems is
located in a frequency-range between 1 and 15 Hz (oscillation). It is
mainly dimensioned for large focal lengths, because in this case only
small movements have to be compensated for. When having to deal with
slower and larger movements, for example 1 to 2 Hz, the reaction time of
this systems is comparatively high.

The Anti-Shake-system is able to work fast and effectively starting with a
frequency of approximately 0,5 Hz, because it is able to move the CCD in
relatively large distances. Thus the Konica Minolta is also suitable when
using short focal lengths.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user711

External


Since: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 604



(Msg. 6) Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 6:14 pm
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

J.S.Pitanga wrote:
[]
 > It is beyond me to discuss this technical subject. The text found in
 > the above linked page is pasted below, hope it is useful.

Thanks for that text, but it doesn't actually discuss how the connections
to the moving element are made (this will affect system reliability).

Cheers,
David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
davidmor

External


Since: Dec 06, 2004
Posts: 2



(Msg. 7) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:54 am
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

In article <30cqgmF2vcp42U1 RemoveThis @uni-berlin.de>,
"David J Taylor" <david-taylor RemoveThis @invalid.com> wrote:
 > Yes, the A2's zoom and EVF are nicer. The FZ20 manual focus is great.
 > But if you /need/ 432mm tele then only the FZ20 will do. If you /need/
 > 28mm wide then only the A2 will do. (Personally, I avoid bulky add-on
 > lenses). Having handled both cameras, I think I prefer the FZ20. Both do
 > have good points and drawbacks. I'd suggest you try and get to a good
 > camera shop to see how you like the handling on each.

Being from the old school, I am still using manual focus on my slr. I have never
had an autofocus camera to use, and I wonder how accurate they are. Is there any
reason to use manual focus on the FZ20 (the camera I am currently looking at)?

How easy is it to focus manually on the FZ20? I have read that there are
difficulties in low light, but I am not sure what "low light" means. Are we
talking about in a deep forest, inside a house, late afternoon, or moonlight?

I notice that the FZ20's longest shutter speed is 8 seconds. Is this a handicap
in low light conditions?

How does it cope in difficult situations like sunsets?

Thanks for any help.

David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user711

External


Since: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 604



(Msg. 8) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:54 am
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

David Morrison wrote:
[]
 > Being from the old school, I am still using manual focus on my slr. I
 > have never had an autofocus camera to use, and I wonder how accurate
 > they are. Is there any reason to use manual focus on the FZ20 (the
 > camera I am currently looking at)?

Most auto-focus cameras today are excellent at focussing. There are some
situations which can cause problems - such as low lighting - and many
cameras have a "focus-assist" light to help in such circumstances. You
may want to be sure that your camera has focussed on your subject - if the
subject is off-centre you may want to centre the subject, focus
(half-press the shutter) and then recompose with the shutter still
half-pressed. That situation is one where manual focus might be useful,
as it the occasion where you want to pre-focus to avoid any time delay in
taking your picture caused by auto-focus.

 > How easy is it to focus manually on the FZ20? I have read that there
 > are difficulties in low light, but I am not sure what "low light"
 > means. Are we talking about in a deep forest, inside a house, late
 > afternoon, or moonlight?

Very easy - flick a switch and turn a ring. Dark areas might include the
dark areas inside a house, possibly moonlight. I've jsut tried this, and
finding a lighter area of the subject is OK for focussing in dark areas
inside a house.

 > I notice that the FZ20's longest shutter speed is 8 seconds. Is this
 > a handicap in low light conditions?
 >
 > How does it cope in difficult situations like sunsets?
 >
 > Thanks for any help.
 >
 > David

I can't comment on your last two points - we haven't had the camera long
enough!

Cheers,
David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
davidmor

External


Since: Dec 06, 2004
Posts: 2



(Msg. 9) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:38 am
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

In article <31j4hoF3bheo6U1 DeleteThis @individual.net>,
"David J Taylor" <david-taylor DeleteThis @invalid.com> wrote:
  > > How easy is it to focus manually on the FZ20? I have read that there
  > > are difficulties in low light, but I am not sure what "low light"
  > > means. Are we talking about in a deep forest, inside a house, late
  > > afternoon, or moonlight?
 >
 > Very easy - flick a switch and turn a ring. Dark areas might include the
 > dark areas inside a house, possibly moonlight. I've jsut tried this, and
 > finding a lighter area of the subject is OK for focussing in dark areas
 > inside a house.

I presume that manual focussing is done by getting the image as sharp as
possible, ie, there is nothing to help do this like the split image in an SLR?

Is the viewfinder good enough for this sort of focussing, or do you have to use
the LCD?

Thanks for your comments.

David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user711

External


Since: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 604



(Msg. 10) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:57 am
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

David Morrison wrote:
 > In article <31j4hoF3bheo6U1 RemoveThis @individual.net>,
 > "David J Taylor" <david-taylor RemoveThis @invalid.com> wrote:
   >>> How easy is it to focus manually on the FZ20? I have read that there
   >>> are difficulties in low light, but I am not sure what "low light"
   >>> means. Are we talking about in a deep forest, inside a house, late
   >>> afternoon, or moonlight?
  >>
  >> Very easy - flick a switch and turn a ring. Dark areas might
  >> include the dark areas inside a house, possibly moonlight. I've
  >> jsut tried this, and finding a lighter area of the subject is OK for
  >> focussing in dark areas inside a house.
 >
 > I presume that manual focussing is done by getting the image as sharp
 > as possible, ie, there is nothing to help do this like the split
 > image in an SLR?

Correct.

 > Is the viewfinder good enough for this sort of focussing, or do you
 > have to use the LCD?
 >
 > Thanks for your comments.
 >
 > David

Either the EVF or the LCD is fine for manual focussing.

David<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
user706

External


Since: Oct 26, 2004
Posts: 13



(Msg. 11) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 9:12 pm
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

In article <31l9v9F3b6c1eU1.TakeThisOut@individual.net>, david-taylor.TakeThisOut@invalid.com says...
  > > I presume that manual focussing is done by getting the image as sharp
  > > as possible, ie, there is nothing to help do this like the split
  > > image in an SLR?
 >
 > Correct.
 >
I assume the 20 does the same as the FZ10 and magnifies the image in the
viewfinder as an aid ?
 >
 >
T.
--
Please Tony, NO!! You'd look dreadful in a basque and fishnets..<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
bill9

External


Since: Nov 06, 2004
Posts: 11



(Msg. 12) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:06 pm
Post subject: Re: A2 vs. FZ20 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"David J Taylor" <david-taylor DeleteThis @invalid.com> wrote in message
news:31l9v9F3b6c1eU1@individual.net...
 > David Morrison wrote:
  >> In article <31j4hoF3bheo6U1 DeleteThis @individual.net>,
  >> "David J Taylor" <david-taylor DeleteThis @invalid.com> wrote:
   >>>> How easy is it to focus manually on the FZ20? I have read that there
   >>>> are difficulties in low light, but I am not sure what "low light"
   >>>> means. Are we talking about in a deep forest, inside a house, late
   >>>> afternoon, or moonlight?
   >>>
   >>> Very easy - flick a switch and turn a ring. Dark areas might
   >>> include the dark areas inside a house, possibly moonlight. I've
   >>> jsut tried this, and finding a lighter area of the subject is OK for
   >>> focussing in dark areas inside a house.
  >>
  >> I presume that manual focussing is done by getting the image as sharp
  >> as possible, ie, there is nothing to help do this like the split
  >> image in an SLR?
 >
 > Correct.
 >
  >> Is the viewfinder good enough for this sort of focussing, or do you
  >> have to use the LCD?
  >>
  >> Thanks for your comments.
  >>
  >> David
 >
 > Either the EVF or the LCD is fine for manual focussing.
 >
 > David

The FZ10 has an aid to manual focussing whereby the central area of the EVF
is magnified as an aid to targeting the focus. I had imagined that this was
still available on the FZ20. It is not a split view, but still quite useful.

Robert R.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: A2 vs. FZ20 
Back to top
Login to vote
Display posts from previous:   
Related Topics:
Life with an FZ20 - Dark evening, self with Nikon 8400, wife with Panasonic FZ20 Her exposure 1/30 at f/2.8. As the Nikon is 50 ISO versus her 80 ISO, my exposure would be 1/19. But wait, I am at maximum zoom (85mm) so only f/4.9. Ah, so my exposure is only 1/6s. Can ...

Panasonic DMC-FZ20 - Just bought the DMC-FZ20 to replace a Fuji FP4900Zoom and the inital impressions are interesting. Firstly, it makes me realise how advanced the 4900Zoom was in 2000 when it was introduced. The 4900Zoom ergonomics were/are excellent - although the FZ20 i...

FZ20's Wide Angle - I am aware of the great glass and tremendous zoom of the FZ20, but what about the wide angle shots. I have seen test shots and I'm afraid that the landscapes that I enjoy shooting will suffer with the 36mm lens. The Panasonic wide angle converter is....

FZ20 Compatible Flash - Hi, Looking for recommendations for a flash unit compatible with the FZ20. Prefer one that will both tilt and rotate. I will primarily be using it for fill/bounce lighting but will also probably use it for when the built-in flash needs help with..

FZ20 Lens Movement - Hi, Just been playing with my new FZ20 and noticed that there is a noticeable radial lens movement - laterally and vertically (in fact in all directions) when the lens is extended after switching on. This movement is in the order of 2-3mm. It is not a..
   Digital Photography Tip (Home) -> Digital Zoom All times are: Pacific Time (US & Canada) (change)
Page 1 of 1

 
You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



[ Contact us | Terms of Service/Privacy Policy ]